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Many years ago, my wife and I attempted to embrace her Polish heritage and start a Christmas pierogi-making tradition: mashing potatoes, making the dough, attempting to roll them in such a way that they wouldn’t explode all over the damn place. It’s hard work, but Derek Shampine at Upstate Pierogi Co. makes it look easy. Shampine made a pandemic pivot from tour managing to lovingly re-creating the dumplings of his childhood, hand-making classics like Pierogi Ruskie and experiments like Beef Bulgogi and Philly Cheesesteak. Next time, skip the Mrs. T’s in the Kroger freezer and seek out the real deal.

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