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The humble dumpling needs robust flavor to stand out, which is why they tend to be filled with shrimp or pork. Beef is often too subtle. This is the exception. Served with a hybrid amazu/ponzu sauce, the wagyu gyoza at Two Ten Jack come in a neat little row on your standard rectangular gyoza plate. But the first bite tells you these are different. The bottom is nicely browned and crispy, a pleasant contrast to the toothsome dough folded on top. That dough then provides just a hint of resistance before a rich, beefy broth spills onto your lips (and probably down your chin). The beef inside has the texture of your favorite burger, with about twice the flavor. It’s a great dumpling.

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