Poke places are a dime a dozen, but the best poke bowl in town? It’s at an Australian fish-and-chips shop. In Hawaiian, poké means “to slice” or “cut into pieces,” and that means you need someone with knife skills to do it. At Red Perch, chef Cameron Payne has the fine-dining bona fides to do it right, as well as a knack for balancing flavors. He takes freshly sliced salmon, dresses it with a piquant, umami-packed mayo, and pairs that with tart, crunchy pickled cucumbers, a savory seaweed salad, and fluffy furikake-topped rice. I eat it twice a week, and that’s not enough.