Guy Fieri came through Hendersonville a few years back to check out Cafe Rakka, the Mediterranean joint that expanded suburbanites’ palates and even spawned an autobiography from Syrian-born founder Riyad Alkasem, about his circuitous journey to finding his niche here in Middle Tennessee (2020’s The Road from Raqqa, with Jordan Ritter Conn). Fieri is due for another visit to the area. First stop: Lyncoya Cafe, at the corner of Main Street and Sanders Ferry Road in the heart of H-Town. The vibe: a throwback to late-’70s “fern bars” with comfy booths, quality thrifted decor, classic rock on the speakers, and soft lighting above it all. The cuisine: comfort food par excellence. The Firecracker, Lyncoya Cafe’s signature item, is like Popeyes’ game-changing spicy fried-chicken, pickle and secret-sauce sandwich, but bigger, better and — unlike at the fast-food spot’s terrestrial locations — always available. Next up: On the northernmost fringes of Davidson County in neighboring Goodlettsville, Lagniappe Bayou Kitchen nobly counters the age-old matter of New Orleans cuisine failing to translate outside Orleans Parish lines. The place opened inauspiciously at COVID’s outset. That gave the folks at Lagniappe time to get their shit down, from classic fare like po’boys and muffulettas to increasingly ambitious seafood (gator, etc.). Show up at dinnertime, and the dining room will be packed — but don’t be deterred. Unlike most New Orleans things, it’ll move quickly.
Best Suburban Comfort Food
Lagniappe Bayou Kitchen and Lyncoya Cafe (tie)
Charlie Zaillian
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