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When COVID finally breached our family’s vaxxed-and-boosted borders, we needed comfort food. The Chicken Fat Rice at TKO delivered. While there is no chicken meat in this rice, that’s kind of why it feels so illicit. Since the East Side restaurant uses chicken fat to flavor the rice, your taste buds zero in on the richness and umami that only schmaltz can provide. TKO finishes it with scrambled egg, hot sauce, zingy scallions and crispy skin — lord, the crispy skin! — to make a dish that hits all the warm-hug notes of fried rice with the snackability of pork rinds. Simple and brilliant. 

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