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When Bryan Lee Weaver brought in acclaimed NOLA restaurant Turkey and the Wolf for a pop-up, I knew he’d peaked — and then came Dan Dan. Weaver brought in the pair of chefs from Wisconsin, and the Dans Brought. It. All. The mapo-tofu walking taco (a bag of Fritos drenched in scallion-studded tofu and addictive sauce); the Taiwan birria quesadilla (scallion pancake, queso); the pig-ear nachos that introduced me to two new obsessions: fermented black beans (douchi) and kimchi crema. And that’s all before I had the shrimp-toast torta with hot mustard-mayo. Bottom line: If there’s a pop-up at Redheaded Stranger, I’ll be first in line.

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