Best Thai

Photo: Michael W. Bunch

There’s a moment just a couple of bites into the pork larb — minced meat with onions, lime juice and chilies — when Thai Esane’s full powers are on display. Nestled in a lettuce cup, the pork is both savory and a little sour, complemented by sticky rice and a host of condiments. Each bite is intense without being overwhelming, light without being slight. Yes, they do the familiar American favorites well, but it’s the Laotian influences here that make it great: the sausages and the spicy papaya salad are otherworldly and, if you ask, hot enough to make you sweat. STEVE CAVENDISH

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