There are restaurants in Nashville with more comprehensive wine lists, and there are restaurants in Nashville with deeper cellars. But for my money, no one in this city has a wine list as purely, delightfully quirky — and ever-changing — as the one put together by Mollie Ward at Rolf and Daughters. It’s a treat to be able to ask a bartender, “What’s the weirdest wine you have?” and to be surprised by a funky Slovenian red or a musty Italian orange. (I mean, who else in town even has a dedicated orange wine section?!?) Drinking outside of your comfort zone makes for a better palate, I think, so thank you, Rolf and Mollie, for ever expanding ours. CARI WADE GERVIN

