While much of the craft-brewing world still seems intent on fighting a hops arms race, a sip of Yazoo’s flagship beers finds exactly one — Hop Project — alongside a crew of reasonable, thoughtful brews. In that way, Yazoo is much like its founder, Linus Hall, who has built a reputation for executing a variety of styles while never being afraid to experiment: The brewery’s Embrace the Funk project has produced some truly outstanding sour beers, for example. What’s next? Expansion plans into Georgia and North Carolina are in the offing, and possibly Kentucky. STEVE CAVENDISH

