If you’ve ever heard anyone describe avgolemono soup as “lemony chicken-and-rice soup,” drag that person to Athens. While it does, in fact, contain those ingredients, avgolemono is actually named for a Greek sauce, so thickness is the name of the game. It should be all about the broth — and that broth should be creamy, tangy and packed with eggy-lemon flavor. If your chilled leftovers don’t make a nice “Thwap!” noise when they go from fridge to saucepan, you don’t have the real deal. ASHLEY BRANTLEY
Best Soup
Avgolemono at Athens
Athens
