The coronavirus caused major upheaval in Nashville’s restaurant industry in 2020, costing jobs, closing businesses and forcing major changes. Two of the city’s best even changed their entire business model.
Nicky’s Coal Fired has been one of the West Side’s best restaurants since opening doors in 2016. But for a few months, chef Tony Galzin had to shut down Enrico, the massive coal oven named for Galzin’s uncle. When it came time to fire him back up, it took the better part of five days, and by that time Tony and Caroline Galzin had changed the restaurant’s style of service entirely, removing bar seating to make way for a takeout operation and changing the order style to a fast-casual mode. Even though it limited the restaurant’s menu a little, nothing has hampered Tony’s creativity. The crawfish pasta entrée he rolled out upon reopening might be one of the restaurant’s best-ever dishes. Toss in a morning coal-fired bagel operation and Nicky’s has made major adaptations to the times.
Over in Germantown, chef Julia Sullivan has been making similar changes at Henrietta Red, transforming the space from one of Nashville’s best fine-dining experiences into Henrietta’s Fish Camp, a fast-casual restaurant with a party store stocked full of Sullivan’s signature foods. Instead of whole fish, you’ll find blackened fish tacos and shrimp boils. In the party store, her luscious anchovy butter is now available alongside chicken-liver mousse, jars of jam and even green goddess dressing. It’s an impressive pivot from someone who was supposed to be attending the James Beard Awards as a finalist for Best Chef: Southeast this year. STEVE CAVENDISH
