Best Fried Rice

When it comes to fried rice, veggie versions are better than meat. I don’t know when this conclusion started percolating in my mind, but I know when it finished, and that was at TKO. Theirs is a study in simplicity because they wring umami out of ev-uh-ry-thing. Meaty mushrooms, biting scallion, delicately seasoned but still soy-forward rice — it’s all in perfect proportion, including a generous, crucial dose of fluffy scrambled egg. Feel free to tell P.F. Chang’s to shove their pork where the sun don’t shine. ASHLEY BRANTLEY

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