Best Fast-Food Revamp

McDonald’s is the undisputed champion of unnatural food shapes. The ribless McRib, the swimming-pool-shaped nuggets, the square Filet-O-Fish — if these things foul you out, I understand. But the latter has a weirdly satisfying flavor profile that I’ve always pitied people for skipping — until now. Australian chef Cameron Payne has brought all his fine-dining skills to this take on the fast-food sandwich: crunchy, square fried-fish patty; a healthy dollop of creamy tartar; a toasted, squishy bun; and most crucially, melted American cheese, on the bottom bun only. The whole thing is fast-food perfection. Chef’s kiss, Cam — or rather fry-cook’s kiss. ASHLEY BRANTLEY

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