So many people just assume that The Catbird Seat is the city’s best restaurant — chef Ryan Poli’s place makes a very strong case — that it actually might be underrated, if you can believe it. The mix of diners can skew heavily toward out-of-towners (some flying in just for the meal), so it’s not always top of mind for locals. But the food is almost flawless, the service even better (with an always-interesting beverage-pairing program), and the open kitchen provides a better show for food lovers than any dinner theater. STEVE CAVENDISH

