When Bastion opened in Wedgewood-Houston two-and-a-half years ago, it was an interesting concept: half neighborhood bar, half tasting menu showcase. On the bar side, a curated list of cocktails and craft beer complemented a single-item menu of the best nachos in town. But walk through the doorway to the restaurant and a little bit of magic happens.
The inevitable comparisons to The Catbird Seat began the minute chef Josh Habiger rolled out his inventive bingo-card tasting menu, but to see Bastion as a Catbird clone is wrong. True, Habiger was one of the opening chefs at Catbird and the emphasis on technique is similar, but if Catbird is designed as a kitchen showcase, Bastion is more a reflection of Habiger’s personality, a more laid-back approach to high-concept cuisine. Maybe it’s the exposed brick from the rehabilitated industrial building or the calmness of the talented staff as they cook in front of guests. Or maybe it’s Habiger’s insistence on stacks of vinyl and a turntable instead of a manicured digital playlist to create atmosphere.
But mostly it’s the man himself as Habiger calmly works through a service, directing his charges through some of the most creative food in town. When we first reviewed Bastion, it was lamb tartare wrapped in a leaf that popped in your mouth, but recently it’s been plays on scallop with rhubarb or dover sole spiced with harissa. And unlike some places, where finishing a tasting menu can feel like running a gauntlet, Bastion’s approach of letting diners choose as much or little as they care to try is, literally, refreshing. The restaurant has a mix of innovation without pretension that, frankly, we wish were more prevalent locally and nationally.
At some point Josh Habiger will get credit for being not just a good chef, but a great one. That point should be now, and Bastion is the proof. STEVE CAVENDISH
