There are other stars in the Strategic Hospitality empire now — and a few more to come — but it is almost impossible to beat the kabuki of The Catbird Seat, Nashville’s original superstar restaurant. Chef Ryan Poli and his uber-talented staff turn the 22-seat restaurant wrapped around an open kitchen into a little bit of theater and a whole lot of daring, starting with Poli’s Italian and Spanish culinary point of view, then leaping into almost any direction in search of a great dish. It is consistently one of the most challenging and inventive meals in the city, and even when the crew misses, they’ll still make you think about what you just ate. STEVE CAVENDISH

