Best Pizza

Photo: Daniel Meigs

Pizza is always a contentious subject, but let’s start with this — pizza can’t be great without great dough. And on that count, Nicky’s has a built-in advantage with former pastry chef Tony Galzin. When his dough hits the 800-plus-degree coal-fired oven (named Enrico), it starts a one-minute journey to perfection, becoming golden and crisp and able to hold up to any ingredients, but never too thick or too chewy. These pies are masterful in their simplicity: white sauce with roasted mushroom sofrito, ricotta and an egg yolk; red sauce with shaved garlic, capicola and arugula, topped by a little bit of pecorino romano; or maybe just the most perfect Neapolitan with basil, a drizzle of olive oil and the gooey-est fresh mozzarella. These are the pies of my dreams. STEVE CAVENDISH

Like what you read?

Click here to make a contribution to the Scene and support local journalism!