Best Hermit-Crab Restaurant Swap

Part of the charm of The 404 Kitchen when it opened was its intimacy, including a kitchen so small that chef Matt Bolus once told me the only way the cooks managed to work in such close proximity was “thanks to bicycle pants and olive oil.” But when Watermark vacated the expansive restaurant space across 12th Avenue, Bolus packed up his knives and gnudi board to move up to a much larger operation. That freed up space for Emmy Squared to back into the former 404 space and offer up their fantastic Detroit-style pizzas, sandwiches and a contender for the best burger in town. CHRIS CHAMBERLAIN

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