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In my 20s, I worked in hell — a pre-#MeToo Tennessee state legislature — and Rae’s was my lunchtime respite. I’m pleased to report the family-owned shop holds up, starting with French bread that’s still NOLA-level perfection. Order a whole pickle, the always-on-point soup of the day, and bust a gut on the Hot Brown, Beastie Girl (beef tenderloin, mushroom sauce) or the Wicked Chicken (green chili, chipotle, pepper jack). But be warned: This lunch eats like dinner, so clear your afternoon.

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