One of the best ways to measure the esteem of a local chef is by how many visiting chefs and foodies make their way to his or her establishments. There’s no doubt that Philip Krajeck and his restaurants Rolf and Daughters and Folk — the latter our choice for this year’s Best Restaurant — make their way to the very top of many visitors’ eat-ineraries. In a dining town filled with elevated Southern farm-to-table eateries, boutique taquerias, notable barbecue joints and various twee culinary fusion concepts, Krajeck stands above the crowd as a chef who concentrates on moving the food scene of the city, and the world, forward.
At Rolf and Daughters, he could have stood pat on his initial success based just on the addictive garganelli verde with heritage pork ragout that patrons will not let him remove from the menu. While the chef accedes to his customers’ demands with that particular dish, he continues to be innovative with the rest of his menu. Experimenting with fermentation in deliciously complex ways, Krajeck has introduced new flavors into rustic European cuisine that are novel and unique.
Folk opened to great expectations and immediate acclaim, thanks to more pushing of the envelope. Why is that clam pizza so delicious and addictive? Because Krajeck adds an extra shot of umami with fermented bonito flakes. Other chefs do a great job of featuring Middle Tennessee’s bounty of produce, but Krajeck truly elevates those ingredients at Folk through clever preparations and techniques. On a pizza or served alongside proteins cooked in a wood-fired oven, vegetables become the paint on Krajeck’s colorful culinary palette. CHRIS CHAMBERLAIN
