Not that we really mind it when an out-of-town team launches a great spot, but it’s especially gratifying to see a project in which a talented longtime Nashville chef finally gets to open his own restaurant. John Stephenson has been cooking around Nashville since 1991; his longest stint was at Fido, where he ran the kitchen for 12 years. His work there earned him a lot of respect in the dining scene, especially for his daily specials, which explored the bounty of seasonal local ingredients.
In December 2018, Stephenson at last opened his own place as a chef and restaurateur, and it’s a winner. Hathorne fills the former fellowship hall of a Methodist church that used to operate on Charlotte Avenue in Sylvan Park. Stephenson’s team transformed it into a comfortable and stylish dining room while keeping the warmth of a much-used church hall. The restaurant’s name is a tribute to Stephenson’s grandmother, Mary Ruth Hathorn — he took poetic license and added Hathorne’s “e.” Presiding over the bar is an adorable black-and-white photo of young Miss Mary Ruth Hathorn, circa 1929, with her intelligent gaze and bobbed hair.
Everything adds up to a relaxed spot that nods to the past while being exquisitely convivial in the present. And the food, created by chef-owner Stephenson and executive chef Joey Molteni, doesn’t disappoint. Not surprisingly, given Stephenson’s previous achievements with seasonal produce at Fido, the vegetables are especially well-executed, but the meat dishes are also exceptional.
Hathorne’s slate of cocktails and wine is also well-chosen, and the happy hour is called the Joyful Hour (in a nod to the former fellowship of the church space). Whether you go for drinks or appetizers — or even better, a wonderfully crafted dinner — Hathorne is a delightful place to spend some time. DANA KOPP FRANKLIN
