Naming your restaurant project “Bad Idea” feels risky, but that’s exactly what Alex Burch chose for his restaurant and wine bar in the former sanctuary of a remodeled church building on Russell Street. The wine bar part made sense, because Burch is an advanced sommelier with experience running some of the city’s best beverage programs. Burch’s experience and wry sense of humor shine through on the voluminous wine list, which features plenty of unusual options alongside stories and advice from the somm. Choosing food to accompany all those different bottles could have been a bad idea, but it turned out to be a brilliant one — as was the decision to hire first-generation Laotian American Colby Rasavong to run the kitchen. Steeped in French techniques and a veteran of the kitchens at Husk, Tailor and Audrey, Rasavong created an ever-evolving menu of small plates and shareable main dishes unlike anything this town has seen before, exotic and homey at the same time. The warm wood, soft fabrics and fun splashes of color make the dining room feel comfortable like … well, a sanctuary. Open until 1 a.m. seven nights a week and offering special late-night menus and pop-ups, Bad Idea feels like a special gift to neighborhood night owls and industry workers seeking to extend an evening.
Best New Restaurant
