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This award is a betrayal of sorts. As a proud Tennessean, I know that our tradition is pig, and in Nashville, we have some great purveyors of the whole-hog arts. But in a town full of very fine swine, the barbecue joint performing at the highest level is Bill Laviolette’s house of brisket in Madison, better known as Shotgun Willie’s. After setting up camp on Gallatin Pike in Inglewood four years ago, Bill moved up the street to a new, bigger spot across the parking lot from Eastside Bowl, graduating from the roadside picnic tables to a proper restaurant space. Shotgun Willie’s brisket is an American wagyu, and the investment is worth the result. Just take a bite, close your eyes and experience what salt, pepper and 12 hours of smoke will do to a great piece of beef.

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