Nam khao croquettes, scallop-stuffed crêpe and laab at Bad Idea
There’s nothing quite like Bad Idea in East Nashville. The church sanctuary turned wine-focused bar and restaurant serves Lao cuisine and is open until 1 a.m. seven nights a week. Whether you’re visiting the bar for a quick drink and bite, sitting down for a full meal or swinging by for a nightcap, Bad Idea is proving to be an exciting stop to any kind of evening.
The space itself is gorgeous. Dining areas flank a horseshoe-shaped bar in the center of the room. There’s a sofa-strewn lounge for light snacking and sipping, and a balcony level with dining tables overlooks the space. The earthy wooden tones are complemented by lush plants and an occasional pop of color. The playfulness of the design represents the overall tone of the restaurant — refined but approachable.
“We want to execute certain things at a high level, but then also know where to relax and have a good time, not take anything too seriously,” says founder Alex Burch, who opened the restaurant in October.
Burch has garnered a stellar reputation in Nashville as an advanced sommelier. He helped develop the wine programs for Strategic Hospitality restaurants including Bastion and Henrietta Red. Wanting to channel that expertise into his own venture, Burch decided to open Bad Idea — it was a long process, which Scene contributor Chris Chamberlain chronicled for us in 2022. The restaurant’s wine menu is (unsurprisingly) extensive, with an impressive array of by-the-glass options.
“[We] try to put a lot of focus into the wine list and how it’s formatted to be easy to understand,” says Burch.
Nam khao croquettes with jeow mak len at Bad Idea
Should you need assistance navigating the options, you can lean on Bad Idea’s knowledgeable staff to provide recommendations — but don’t expect a strong emphasis on pairings.
“It’s not something we really offer,” says executive chef Colby Rasavong, a StarChefs Rising Stars Award winner who has worked in renowned kitchens including Audrey, Husk and Tailor. “That’s the part of fine dining that we kinda want to leave behind. This style of eating and drinking is, grab a bottle of wine over some food and just enjoy the space, enjoy the people you’re with.”
The same philosophy applies to Rasavong’s food, which is inspired by his Lao heritage and family recipes. “I want familiarity of the dishes,” says Rasavong. “They may not be words on the menu you understand, but if you eat it, you can kind of think back to something that you’ve had before.”
Featuring small plates and shareable main courses, the menu provides opportunities to try several dishes each meal. Those dining at the bar or sitting in the lounge will see a different, lighter menu (though the bar also serves the full menu), and there’s also a late-night menu on offer from 10 p.m. to 12:30 a.m. Throughout March, the kitchen has hosted Sunday night pop-ups featuring chefs like Tailor’s Vivek Surti, Fox Den Izakaya’s Tillman Gressitt and Iggy’s Ryan Poli. On March 24, the restaurant will host St. Vito Focacceria’s Michael Hanna.
Joyce Farms poulet rouge for two
The Scene sat down for a truly memorable meal at Bad Idea on a recent Wednesday night.We ordered the nam khao croquettes, a crunchy bite featuring flavors like coconut, seaweed, apples and a Lao tomato sauce called jeow mak len. The croquettes are sweet, savory and punctuated with spices. The scallop-stuffed crêpe is served with a beautifully creamy nam prik blanquette and topped with a lace tuile that adds a striking visual element and a crunchy texture to the soft dish.
The poulet rouge, a course featuring chicken three ways, is the main event. First comes the sai oua, an aromatic, Lao-style chicken sausage served with chili oil and a garlic and ginger condiment that tastes great with anything. Then there’s the thom khem, a soy-caramel-braised chicken breast served with rice and an egg. While the chicken breast has a sweetness to it, it’s not a sweet dish — it’s salty and tender with a hint of warming spices. Finally, there’s the khao piak, a Lao-style chicken noodle soup featuring Proper Sake kasu noodles — a chicken noodle soup unlike any I’ve ever tasted. The broth was incredibly rich and savory, with an almost gravy-like consistency that thoroughly coats each noodle.
Scallop-stuffed crêpe with nam prik blanquette and lace tuile
For dessert, try the durian and caramelized milk mille-feuille. Durian, known in some Asian cultures as the king of fruits, is also known for its pungent, not-so-pleasant odor, which can be hard for many to overcome. But chef Rasavong uses fat from cream to neutralize the aroma so you’re left with nothing but the delicious, tropical-flavored filling nestled between layers of flaky pastry.
“This restaurant has been just finding myself,” says Rasavong. “Growing up as a first-generation [immigrant], you’re so lost in the world. You don’t really meld in the American diasporic culture, because that’s not who you are. But then you’re also growing up in America, so you don’t really fit into the traditional version of where your family’s from either. And it’s been so exciting to see — like in theater and writing — all these Asian American people really thriving in this moment. And people are loving it and enjoying it and being accepting of it. Which gave me the confidence to even want to cook this food.”
