Every chef has a trick, something delicious and malleable that they pull out for a menu and it stays on forever and changes with the seasons — or whatever whim happens to strike him or her. For Matt Bolus, it’s burrata, a quick version of mozzarella made with cream. In the summer, he might pair it with squash and turmeric. In the winter it might appear with apple and some walnuts. He’s even rolled out a buttermilk version that is so good it will curl your toes. On a menu full of goodness, it’s the one thing we always order.