To be clear, we’d eat anything from Betsy Johnston, the pastry chef who moved over from Margot to the new Jonathan Waxman place in the Gulch. But her banana pudding comes off as almost a crème brulée, so light and custardy is the “pudding” itself, which sits on top of a thin banana caramel. Layered with slim, torched slices of banana on top, served with grilled pieces of banana bread, it’s galaxies away from the Nilla wafer-style pudding we grew up on.

