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Cheese sticks seem simple: You want as much cheese as possible so they pull apart stringy-like without making the bread impossible to pick up. You want them seasoned well, and served with enough marinara that you don’t have to ask a waiter three times for more. This is, somehow, impossible for most pizza joints. Not Midnight Oil. It’s like Papa John’s cheese sticks grew up and got their shit together, largely by realizing garlic butter should just be brushed across the top, not offered on the side in gross, perpetually separated dipping-sauce form. Bonus: Midnight Oil’s cost $1 less than the inferior P.J. version.

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