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The only drawback to doughnuts is that they are not beignets. Well, guess what. At Josephine brunch, they are. Chef Andy Little’s dough balls (no holes here!) hit all the high points of doughnutdom: airy batter, bready undertones, slight sweetness, cinnamon-sugar dusting. They are also somehow imbued with that ethereal beignetness — you know, the thing that makes pastries light, fluffy and perfectly pull-apartable. Dunk ’em, dip ’em, devour ’em whole — just get there before the trashlorettes start calling them something awful like “been-yo-nutz” and forming a line around the block.

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