The winner, long ago, of the Scene’s hotly contested honors for “Best Polynesian Restaurant in Smyrna” has been a Rutherford County staple for more than a half-century. So beloved is the mom-and-pop tiki lounge that, legend has it, legislators rerouted I-24 around it. Order up a Shrimp Panamanian plate of fat deep-fried prawns for the adults, then watch the kids marvel at the aquariums, the South Pacific paraphernalia, the little fountain and the blacklights that turn their white shirts phosphorescent. Bonus points for the Pu-Pu Platter — fire plus bacon and poop jokes; kid heaven — and for the ice cream served in a seashell with a flaming sugar cube.

