After the glorious old Melrose Lanes was razed in the same strip, we’re glad to see new owners Austin Ray and Joe Parkes treat the old gal like the tiara she was and is. The decor gleams, the music so far leans toward the Americana acts that Kim Webber and Karen Leipziger were booking there in latter years, and the food served up by chef Nick Seabergh (who comes to Nashville via Donald Link’s Herbsaint and John Currence’s City Grocery) tips its toque to the pub chow of decades past with fried pickles, nachos and hot dogs — just maybe a leetle bit fancier and more expensive than you might remember. Then again, if you hung out much at the old Sutler, there’s probably a lot you don’t remember.

