Nashville Friday Five: Getaway Guide — 30A in the Offseason

If you’ve been to Florida’s 30A, you know it’s essentially Nashville South. Named for Scenic Highway 30A, this 24-mile stretch of beaches along the Gulf of Mexico (for now) is the go-to spot for every mommy blogger and Crossfit dad within 50 miles of Davidson County. But there’s a reason the beautiful people love the place where we native Tennesseans grew up going: It’s great.

Orange Beach, the Outer Banks, Kiawah Island — there are lots of beach communities across the South that are charming and unique. The beauty of 30A? You get over 15 of those, all in one neat little line. This is just the most recent list: 

• Alys
• Blue Mountain 
• Dune Allen
• Grayton 
• Gulf Place
• Inlet
• Miramar
• Rosemary 
• Sandestin
• Santa Rosa 
• Seascape
• Seaside
• Seacrest
• Seagrove 
• Watercolor
• Watersound

I’ve been going to 30A since childhood, and I’ve never heard of three of those. But that’s the norm. The Whack-a-Mole nature of development on 30A will feel quite familiar to Nashvillians, and the upside is that it gives you endless options.

But first:

1. Why Go to 30A in the Offseason?

You know how the coziest time to enjoy a hot tub is surrounded by snow? The inverse is true. Something feels extra snug and special about cuddling up by a fire with a cool breeze coming off the winter ocean and a piping cup of cocoa.

But the offseason is also ideal because of:

Price

Obviously, beach stays in winter are cheaper. But I did the math on a couple, and a three-day weekend in June can cost you quadruple what it does in January. Quadruple!

A three-bedroom beachfront house that’ll cost $17,584 in the summer is just $3,738 in January. I’m not always a massive cheapskate, but saving $13,000 (70 percent!) is a win — especially when Walton County Tourism reports that visitors to 30A spend $785 every day of their trip.

Crowds

More than 5 million people visit 30A every year. That is a buttload of humans, which means that from June through August, you may wait hours at restaurants and in bumper-to-bumper traffic on actual Highway 30A. In the fall, you can stroll crowdless beaches and walk into any restaurant you want without running into anyone you know. (And when 67 percent of visitors to 30A come from Southeastern states, if you go in July you’re going to end up small-talking with that pesky parent you strive to avoid in Nashville.) 

Weather

At 90-plus degrees, it’s hot as hell on 30A in August. It bottoms out in January at 42, but it’s still above 60 degrees during the day. If you survived Nashville’s recent “snowstorm,” you’ll find these temps positively refreshing. Plus, 30A gets markedly less rain in the offseason.

Vibe

My favorite reason to visit 30A in the offseason is the vibe. Lots of cool events (November’s holiday market, January’s songwriters fest, February’s wine extravaganza) happen year-round. 

But the best part is that locals are more relaxed, with time to chat about the freshest fish to buy at Goatfeathers or the new local liquor you should try at Driftwood Wine & Spirits. As Nashvillians, we know what it’s like to live in a place that’s regularly overrun by tourists — and how nice it is to get a break now and then.

BUT: Can You Still Get in the Ocean? 

Most months, yes! It was brisk in November, but the ocean is a viable option from late March through Thanksgiving, and lots of places heat pools year-round. Think of this way: When some Nashvillians are paying $50 to get dunked in ice-cold water, you can do it for free.

2. Where to Stay on 30A in the Offseason

If you Google “beach rental 30A,” your brain will start leaking out of your ears by page 3. Narrow your search by booking:

1. In your favorite area 
2. Near key attractions or
3. With a company you trust. 

In terms of No. 1, my favorites are Rosemary, Seagrove and Watercolor, but I’ve stayed everywhere from Sandestin to Inlet Beach and enjoyed them all. That said, if you know your group is all about an activity — paddle boarding, boating, golfing, spa — pick a resort that facilitates it. And if you’re truly clueless, use the companies below.

Sanders Beach Rentals

If a picture’s worth a thousand words, this one’s closer to a million. I still can’t believe we stayed at this absurdly picturesque place — in old Seagrove, walking distance to but not in Seaside, with private beach access. I found the stunning Beach Bungalow through Sanders Beach Rentals, which gives you the access of an Airbnb but the full-service perks of a hospitality company. 

When you’re in a real home, you get to live like a local — or, better yet, like whatever rich person actually owns the house you’re renting. And hoo boy, Sanders has some doozies: 

• This funky six-bedroom in Grayton right next to the Red Bar
• This enclave in Watercolor with a heated pool and golf cart 
• This cozy beachfront cottage in Seaside that’s so idyllic I considered ditching my family and going alone 

But the key part of using a company is that the options are not, in fact, endless — they’re better because they’ve been curated by someone else, and that someone also manages them. Sanders will kick you off with starter kits (dishwasher pods, toilet paper, etc.), and they’ll connect you with companies they trust for bike delivery, cribs, and bonfires.

While you know what you need in a rental, the Beach Bungalow is pretty unbeatable. Built in 1953, this house is beautifully renovated but retains its original charm, which is increasingly rare. The screened porch, the adorable bunk room for kids, the fenced-in yard overlooking the ocean — I thought all the places like this had been demolished to make way for three-story prefab dipshit pads — see: the house down the street with a Trump flag covering two of its three floors — but, happily, some nice things remain. 

Tip: Book a property through Sanders from now through Feb. 28 and get a night free when you book four or more nights.

St. Joe Properties & Camp Creek Inn 

If you’re a resort person, St. Joe Company has properties all over 30A. Standouts include:

• Camp Creek Inn (Inlet) — upscale-rustic compound, ideal for families and sporty folks
• The Pearl Hotel (Rosemary) — adult-focused enclave with chic Bavarian look
• WaterColor Inn (Santa Rosa) — warm, family-friendly inn with beachfront views
• Watersound Inn (Watersound) — large, condo-style suites in the Nantucket style  

These properties all afford you beach access (including transportation to and from if needed). While The Pearl is its own luxurious thing — adults-only pool, complimentary valet, in the heart of Rosemary — Watersound Beach Club is a hub for the rest. It’s got 7,000 square feet of pools, a mile of private beach, cabanas (which you don’t have to rent like you do here in Nashville), restaurants, and a kids’ game room. You can also get rentals (kayaks, surf and paddle boards, etc.) for $15-$40 an hour.

For the active, Camp Creek Inn is the obvious choice. Not only are offseason stays about half price, but they offer All the Things:

• Golf on a sanctuary course that’s harmoniously integrated with the surrounding wetlands, plus a baller performance center with lessons, a driving range, and pro shop
• Tennis and pickleball on lighted courts. Take a starter class or clinic, try out “Cardio Tennis,” or join their nighttime pickleball party with rotating partners, music, and cocktails.
• A huge multi-pool area with a waterslide, hot tub, lazy river and adults-only lap pool, many of which are heated year-round. 
• Wellness center with fitness classes, basketball court, kids' playground, multi-use sports field, and a teen lounge.

They’ve also got six dining concepts across properties. Brunch at ANR is worth a trip for the zingy pimento cheese and toasty malted waffles, decadently dressed with peach jam, maple syrup, whipped cream and fruit. But my favorite perk is their “Treat Suites”: little rooms on each floor that are stocked with free sodas, fruit, ice cream, coffee and snacks. Not since the Noelle’s Hydration Station (now renamed “The Nook”) has anything thrilled me so.

3. Staying on 30A With Kids and Babies

If you’ve ever checked a carseat on a flight, you’ve only done it once. (I’d rather drive eight hours to 30A than ever do that again.) Let these folks make family trips stress-free:

Beach Baby Crib Rentals 

I knew you could rent cribs and car seats, but swings, bouncers, and beach toys? No clue. Before my daughter turned 1, I would’ve bought (and left) a bouncer or Baby Brezza at our rental before I’d take a trip without them. With Beach Baby Crib Rentals, pick what you need — beach tents, bottle sterilizer, a child’s picnic table — and they’ll deliver, pick up, and even set up your stuff if possible. They’ve also got packages like the Deluxe Baby with a crib, stroller, high chair, step stool and sound machine for $200 a week. If that doesn’t sound like a deal to you, congrats on not having kids.

A.O.K. 30A Taxi

KreweCar isn’t available on 30A (yet), but have no fear: Keith — no last name, just like Cher — has been shuttling families to and from PCB airport for years. My father-in-law found and bonded with Keith (as only grandpas can), and he’s now our go-to resource for a ride, car seat, and fun spots where the locals go (Keith used to be in hospitality). There’s no app or website — simply call Keith (even day-of!), tell him when you’ll arrive, and he’ll be there.

Peddlers 30A

As the biggest bike-rental outfit on 30A, Peddlers does it all, including delivering bikes for any rental three days or longer. For $30-$40 per day or $60-$70 per week, you can rent bikes and tricycles but also things I’ve never heard of like the Burley (a covered trailer you pull a small child in) or a Kazoo tandem bike (for bigger kids who aren’t yet fast enough to keep up on their own bikes). Bonus: The Peddlers’ compound has kid-friendly shopping (think Alvin’s Island or Wings), pavilions, fire pits, TVs and live music most nights.

The Big Chill 

This outdoor food hall has all kinds of food and drink (smoothies, pizza, barbecue, milkshakes). The big open lawn is surrounded by shops, littered with games and outfitted with a stage and big screen where they’re typically showing sports or live music. Think outdoor Fifth + Broad but with more room to run around.

4. Where to Eat and Drink on 30A in the Offseason

There are hundreds of places to eat on 30A now, so we always hit an old-school spot, explore a new one and cook at home.

Old-school Haunts, From West to East

• Stinky’s Fish Camp (Santa Rosa)
  Casual dining on a coastal dune lake with a rowdy bar (the Bait Shack) for everything from tackle and bait to a full bar and live music. Buy the diabolical frozen Stink Juice for the guy in your group who thinks he can outdrink everyone — and then enjoy watching him dance on a table. 
• Hurricane Oyster Bar (Santa Rosa)
  Cozy open-air joint that specializes in fried seafood and oysters. Try the baked jalapeño, bacon-and-cheddar oysters or the raw World Tour (the Mexican has pico de gallo and escabeche, the German pickled red cabbage and dill, etc.). And don’t be precious about it — this place has $2 draft beer at happy hour; it’s not trying to be Henrietta Red. 
• Red Bar (Grayton)
  Founded in 1995, Red Bar is an institution (with a story you should read involving the Belgian army, drunks with pool cues and rebuilding after a fire). Grab a seat at the convivial bar and enjoy live music and the famous Panne Chicken.
• Fish Out of Water (WaterColor)
  With stunning beach views, Fish out of Water delivers romantic dinners as easily as family-friendly lunches. Order a glass of the Chic Cava Rosé and chat with knowledgeable servers like Quinn to find out what’s fresh. 
• Cafe Thirty-A (Seagrove)
  Also a staple for nearly 30 years, Cafe Thirty-A has an upscale island atmosphere and the best deal on 30A: If you can get seated between 4:30 and 5 p.m., entrees are buy one get one free. They’ve been doing this since the ‘90s, and the sesame-crusted tuna and Maine lobster mac are still an unbeatable early bird combo. 
• Old Florida Fish House (Seagrove/Seacrest)
  I discovered this spot two years ago and have no clue how I missed it for two decades. A rambling outdoor garden with string lights, lake views, a piano bar that takes requests, excellent food, and an ice-cream shop for the kids — what’s not to love?
• George’s (Alys)
  The spot for the ladies who lunch that also happens to be quite tasty. Cocktails are as much of a draw as the food. 
• Restaurant Paradis (Rosemary)
  This small fine-dining restaurant is refined but comfortable, and no one does seasonal decor better. Grab a sunset drink at The Pearl rooftop and stroll down to Paradis for fresh snapper or a rack of elk.

Other longtime favorites include Basmati’s for Asian food, Borago for Italian, Cowgirl Kitchen for breakfast or grab-and-go, the Great Southern Cafe for brunch, AJ’s for karaoke and sushi (that old classic combo), and Bud & Alley’s for drinks and views. (The food is overrated.)

New Spots

Like Nashville, new restaurants pop up all the time, so hit whatever’s in walking distance. Recently we’ve enjoyed Black Bear Bread Co., The Citizen, Surfing Deer, and Neat Tasting Room. To see the latest and greatest near you, check out 30A Eats by Susan Benton for what the locals are loving.

Cook at Home: Goatfeathers

While the O.G. Goatfeathers in Santa Rosa does have a classic old-school restaurant upstairs, the market downstairs is the real draw. The must is steamed shrimp: Get as many pounds as you want, with or without potatoes and corn, tossed in their signature seasoning. They steam the shrimp for you, so all you have to do is take it home and enjoy. Plus, the leftovers keep like a dream, so you’re set for shrimp cocktail the next day. 

If you are staying somewhere with a kitchen, try a piece of fresh fish like skate or pompano that you don’t often see and grab a tub of crab claws plus some lemon butter from the cold case. Throw that in a skillet with salt and a squeeze of lemon and let the compliments roll in. Goatfeathers now also has locations in Seagrove and Inlet, so they’re never far away.

5. How to Relax on 30A in the Offseason

Spa Pearl

If I’m going to a spa, I want someone to pummel the stress out of my shoulders like a boxer. The massages at Spa Pearl are blissfully relaxing. Come early or stay after to enjoy their chic little pool, which is right outside your treatment room. The last time I tried to make an appointment, the only one left was a “Moisture Infused Hydrating Facial” with Lindsay. I reluctantly snapped it up, certain it wouldn’t be as satisfying as my usual Swedish. I’ve never been so glad to be wrong.

What, exactly, is a HydraFacial? Regular facials have three steps: 

1. Cleanse 
2. Exfoliate
3. Infuse with serums

Typically, step two is done with dermabrasion, where a spinning device essentially sands off the outer layers of skin. The skin that grows back is smoother, but in the short term, your face is as red and swollen as a RHONJ househusband. With the gentler HydraFacial, a tiny vacuum sucks all the nasty funk out of your pores, and then they infuse medical-grade magic ingredients to moisturize and plump. Not only is the process intensely gratifying — think vacuuming out your car or ripping off a Bioré strip — but it also works. I could actually feel it quenching my thirsty skin, and my face looked fuller and less dull right after. This process is particularly helpful in winter, when the dry air can cause skin to crack and flake.

One last piece of good news: Any facial that’s 80 minutes or longer comes with LED red light therapy, which treats everything from eczema to wrinkles. But the real shock is its effect on redness. The light therapy calmed my sun damage, rosacea and inflammation from air travel in less than 10 minutes.

Shop in Rosemary

Deals abound in the offseason as shops unload their (often wildly expensive) back catalog of goods. This is true up and down 30A, but if you want to hit a bunch of good spots, Rosemary’s a great place to do it. Check out the most charming bookstore outside of Parnassus, The Hidden Lantern, which is especially great for kids; grab gifts and goods at Patchouli’s (a local brand that’s been around since 1992) and get bargain-basement prices on high-end clothes on the sale rack outside of ExVoto.  

Beach Bonfire

There are lots of companies that will set up bonfires, which is your only option unless you plan to purchase a $50 permit, wood, accelerant, chairs, s’more stuff and so on. (And if you skip that permit, you’re looking at a $200 fine.) The South Walton website lists a lot of great services that will set one up right in front of your beachfront house. But if you’re staying at a resort like Camp Creek, you can pony up for a turnkey experience. For a group, $450 will get you s’more stuff, bottled water, and beach chairs for up to 30 people for two hours, and you can add on food and drink. The only thing better than watching the sun set over the ocean by a cracklin’ fire? Not building that fire yourself.

Bites

Nashville Friday Five: Getaway Guide — Pigeon Forge and Sevierville

• Ashley Brantley

Bites

Nashville Friday Five: Getaway Guide — New Orleans

• Ashley Brantley

Bites

Nashville Friday Five: Spring Staycation Guide

• Ashley Brantley