The first time you drive down the strip in Pigeon Forge, do it as a passenger. There is so much to see that drivers end up rubbernecking trying to determine if that upside-down facade is actually a museum (it is). If you’ve ever been to Destin, Fla., imagine that strip with less sand, more moonshine and an equal prevalence of ill-advised tank tops.
That disclaimer given, I do believe this nonsense has its place. As we drove into town, my 2-year-old looked out the window at the mini roller-coasters and neon lights and perennial Christmas decor and declared it all “so boooo-tiful.” That alone was funny enough to make our trip worth it.
There’s no doubt Pigeon Forge and Sevierville are full of kid-friendly activities. Dollywood, in and of itself, gets rave reviews from every parent I know, with several declaring it superior to Disney World in terms of cost, convenience and how much fun their families have there. We couldn’t bring ourselves to pony up $224 for two adults when the toddler attractions are limited, but it’s a nice touch from Dolly that:
Kids under 4 are always admitted free, and
Kids born in 2019-20 can get free admission using the Pre-K Imagination Season Pass.
I had to see this “wine” list to believe it. Now you can too.
Dollywood aside, there is so much stuff to do here. Is there also a ton of junk? Absolutely. But with a little bit of research, you can separate the raspberry moscato from the merlot.
Here are 25 spots to find respite from the kitsch so you can live to Forge another day.
1. Stay: The Wayback Hotel
The great news about accommodations in this area is that, relative to Nashville, they’re cheap. The bad news is that many of them feel that way.
The Wayback is an exception. With upscale retro vibes akin to The Dive Motel or Drift Nashville, this renovated old motor lodge offers cozy, modern rooms, plenty of parking, a private pool with Airstream bar, and a full-service restaurant. It’s a Marriott, which gives you a base level of quality, but it was developed by one of those chic investment firms that makes it feel hip and fun and nicer than it has to be for the price point.
The Wayback
As for the nitty gritty:
The Latin-influenced food is solid and comes in huge portions.
The margarita my gal Evelyn made me poolside was balanced and fresh (and it used real citrus, which is rare in Sevier County).
The staff was endlessly accommodating to the tiny, rambunctious travelers we had in tow.
We arrived early, and the manager took the time to find us a room farther away from housekeeping — her idea — since we were traveling with a toddler and a small, skittish rescue dog. To me, this one one of the biggest benefits of a nearby getaway like Pigeon Forge: Many of the hospitality pros at the best places come from — and love — this area, which keeps the Southern hospitality front and center.
Of Nearby Note: The Island
That’s one thing that makes the Mountain-Dew-fueled fever dream of The Island a shock to the system. It’s right across the street from The Wayback, and at some point, someone is going to direct you to this mess of shops, restaurants and rides. It’s exactly as loud and corporate as you imagine, but if you’ve got kids, it’s good for a few hours of activity.
However, it’s jumbled up with two Margaritaville properties that Jimmy Buffett, may he rest, somehow convinced people is luxurious just by slapping his name on it. But I’ve got to take a moment to tell you there is simply no way a stay is worth $447.50 per night with taxes and fees — The Wayback is $244 all-in — especially when the former has a two-night minimum. Heck, you can stay at Dollywood’s Heartsong Resort for $291.36 per night! If you’re staying two nights in Pigeon Forge and paying close to $900 for the honor, I understand why you’re grateful it’s always 5 o’clock somewhere.
2. Eat: Applewood Farmhouse Restaurant
There are a lot of places that promise down-home comfort food in this area. Applewood Farmhouse Restaurant delivers, figuratively and literally. Both times we ordered from here, we did it via Uber Eats to avoid Labor Day-weekend crowds.
To my completely outsized delight, the roughly $75 Cabin Packs (with tax!) come in a big, easy-to-carry cardboard box, which is crucial if you’re dining outdoors (see point No. 3). It’s also excellent if you’re staying in a rental house and need something to pack your leftover food in when it’s time to depart. Nashville restaurants: Look into these! They rule.
When it comes to food, here’s what I know:
The chicken and dumplings are well-seasoned and good.
The fried chicken is even better — crunchy and golden brown, even after traveling 30 minutes from the restaurant to us.
The green beans are expertly cooked — soft but not disintegrating — and deeply infused with salty, porky goodness.
The mashed potatoes are smooth and just stiff enough to indicate they’re properly full of butter.
I can’t vouch for every meal here. This Instagram photo of an omelet makes my mouth instantly dry, as did the apple fritters that appear to be their signature dish. (You get these free with group orders, and there’s a reason — even my 2-year-old wouldn’t touch 'em.)
That said, the banana pudding and peach cobbler were both tasty without being too sweet, so I chalk up Frittergate to “you get what you pay for.”
You can order online for pickup or use Uber Eats. If you dine in, I suggest you eat in the original farmhouse, not the grill, and reserve the parlor for a group.
3. Hang Out: The Red Jasper Beer Garden
Before heading to Sevier County, I read a bunch of articles and asked three different P.R. departments for hidden gems. None of them mentioned this place, but it was my favorite.
On our second trip to the Smokies this year, we stayed in an (incredible) Airbnb in the mountains. I knew we’d be there over Labor Day along with every grommet on earth, so I looked on Google Maps for places near the house — and particularly those in the opposite direction of the strip. That’s where I found Red Jasper. The simple, rustic beer garden is perched right beside a small stream. Pull up a stool at the treehouse-style bar, wander out by the river to a picnic table, or stop to play darts, cornhole, frisbee golf or board games. Best of all, you can just sit in an Adirondack chair or lie in a hammock with a cold one and listen to the stream trickle by.
At The Red Jasper
Things to remember:
They don’t serve food outside of packaged snacks (chips, popsicles, etc.), so BYO. However, if you forget that (like we did), you can order Uber Eats to the parking lot. A big box of fried chicken from Applewood Farmhouse goes down real nice with a cold Tennessee beer (of which they offer many).
The bathrooms are portables — just good to know before you go.
Follow them on Facebook, not Instagram, for the most complete information on fun events like crawfish boils.
If you’re bringing kids, make sure they bring swimsuits and/or waterproof shoes. The stream is right there, and you’re a sterner parent than I if you can stop your child from wading in.
Be prepared to pony up $15-$25 for gem mining for kids. We did the $15 small buckets, and kids ages 2, 10 and even 16 enjoyed sifting through the sand using the sluice to find treasures.
Is the gem-mining manufactured? I’m sure. But if you’ve ever gone fishing with kids all day and caught nothing, you won’t scoff at a stocked pond.
Anakeesta Treetop Skywalk at night
4. Do Outdoorsy Stuff
AllTrails is a far better outdoor guide than I, especially since you can input the length, difficulty, scenic features, distance and other stuff to find trails that suit your group.
But here are a few easy outdoor excursions:
Harrisburg Covered Bridge: One of only four historic covered bridges in Tennessee, this timber truss bridge was built in 1875, is on the National Register of Historic Places, and is still driven over by cars (so watch yourself when taking that selfie).
Middle Prong Trail: This chill, 4.1-mile-out-and-back trail along the river will take you by several scenic cascades.
Cades Cove: This valley offers options for hikes, walks, swims, wildlife sightings and views of preserved homesteads.
Metcalf Bottoms: Download the directions for this easy walk before you go — cell service is basically nonexistent in the national park — and enjoy the 1.5-mile-out-and-back walk to the 19th-century Little Greenbrier Schoolhouse. It was built in 1882 and used as a school and church until 1936. When it’s warm, wade in the shallow creek at the trailhead.
Newfound Gap: The drivable 31-mile pass boasts killer lookouts, including one on the state line between North Carolina and Tennessee.
Gatlinburg Trail: This dog-friendly park has a woodsy 3.8-mile roundtrip path, partially over a river.
Anakeesta Treetop Skywalk: The Cherokee “Place of the Balsams” was formed more than 200 million years ago and is mostly slate. I cannot wait to return once the 50-foot height of the hanging bridge wouldn’t scar my daughter for life.
There’s also the major can’t-miss in the area, Clingman’s Dome, which is the highest:
Mountain in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park
Point in the state of Tennessee
Point along the Appalachian Trail
Use AllTrails to choose your own adventure level, and be sure to discuss the utterly predictable history of the Dome’s name on your hike. The short story is this:
The Cherokee name for this mountain was “Kuwohi”, or "mulberry place.” Cherokee lore says the mountain was home to White Bear, the great chief of all bears. The water of the nearby lake Ataga'hi was enchanted with the power to cure wounded bears, which is why so many flock there. Magical, right?
Magical — and true! This dude cruised by our porch (and even dipped his paws in the hot tub) in Sevierville.
Cue the white settlers. When they pulled up in the 1800s, they dubbed the mountain "Smoky Dome" because they saw the fog and were super creative. Then, in 1859, a dude named Arnold Guyot took the petty up a notch. His friend, Thomas L. Clingman, a Confederate general, had been arguing with a UNC professor, Elisha Mitchell, over which mountain was actually the highest in the region. Mitchell said Black Dome (today’s Mount Mitchell), while Clingman asserted it was this one. Once Guyot confirmed that Black Dome was 39 feet lower, he named this one for his friend in a deeply unnecessary tribute.
The silver lining: A Cherokee-led effort (supported by the county's Board of Commissioners) to change the name back to Kuwohi was a success. The U.S. Board of Geographic Names voted Wednesday and approved the request with a unanimous vote.
5. Explore a Little More
In Sevierville:
The Cherry Pit Quilt Shop: After retiring from the newspaper business, George and Jane Washington opened The Cherry Pit in the basement of their house in 1998. They used to joke that their basement location was “the pits.” And, since George is a distant cousin of President George Washington (seven times removed) who once famously chopped down a cherry tree, the couple decided this was the perfect name for their store. (Nobody tell George that this story is a myth!) Today, the shop holds classes and specializes in everything from batik to bolts.
Emmons ReSound ’65 Custom steel guitar
Emmons Guitar Co.: Darin Shiflett and Kelcey O’Neill brought back the Emmons Guitar brand, making and selling their pedal steel guitars locally. They’re at the showroom most days, too, if you want to chat about items like the ReSound ‘65 push-pull pedal steel, supposing you know what that is. (For us novices, a pedal steel is a console-style guitar that uses pedals and knee levers to change the pitch of strings.)
The Pines Downtown: This small entertainment venue has duckpin bowling, bar games, Nintendo and snookball, which is an adorable, surprisingly difficult game where you can try your soccer skills on a giant pool-table style playing field. Extra cool detail: This place is inside the original Pines Theater building, which is where Dolly Parton played her first paying gig in 1956 at age 10.
Also in downtown Sevierville:
Dolly Parton statue: Snap a selfie with the patron saint of early childhood literacy.
Red’s Soda Fountain: Try a hand-mixed soda phosphate, milkshake, malt or sundae in this 1940s-themed shop.
Story Fragrance Library: Make your own perfume or candle with guidance from knowledgeable owners James and Tracy Gunn.
Ronel Raicsics Designs: If you’ve got a couple grand lying around, hit up this bespoke jewelry store to design your own piece. (And if you’ve got 20 grand lying around, purchase me these diamond-and-white-gold studs. Thanks in advance.)
101 SkyLounge: Hit this rooftop lounge above the Historic Central Hotel on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights for solid cocktails, cozy fire pits and 360-degree mountain views.
In Pigeon Forge:
Somehow, this Riverwalk is still a bit of a secret. But the peaceful, tree-lined greenway, which runs parallel to the Little Pigeon River, is unequivocally the best way to get to several destinations without braving the insanity of the strip. Take it to:
Dollywood
The Pigeon Forge Community Center
The Island
The LeConte Event Center
Patriot Park
Restaurants and attractions along the way
The Pigeon Forge Milling Company was founded in 1915 to grind wheat into flour. Today they sell flour, cornmeal and grits.
The Old Mill
This historic landmark is one of the oldest continually operating grist mills in the country. It’s also one of the few places in Pigeon Forge proper that offers a glimpse of real history as opposed to, say, a medieval castle facade that houses high-tech fantasy games.
Walk around the property and enjoy the stream, watch the ducks, stop in for a meal and (sometimes) catch some live banjo music. Some interesting Mill milestones:
In 1817, Isaac Love built an iron forge here. Iron ore was plentiful in the hills, they could burn timber to make charcoal for the fires, and the river provided power for the big ol’ hammer they needed to pound it out. Why does iron ore matter? It’s critical for making steel (98 percent of mined iron ore goes to that), which experts argue may be more important to the world economy than anything other than oil.
Love’s son, William, and his brothers built the original mill in 1830 to grind corn. The mill was built using pine, tulip poplar (now the state tree of Tennessee) and hemlock, which is naturally impervious to decay. However, what English speakers call “hemlock" wood is actually tsuga, a type of pine. The misnomer arose because the crushed leaves of the tsuga tree smell similar to the completely unrelated poisonous hemlock plant.
In 1841, Love began calling the community “Pigeon Forge” after the passenger pigeons that would roost in the trees above the forge during their migration south.
While you’re here, don’t miss The Pottery House Cafe. Their bake their bread daily onsite using grains straight from the mill, and they serve it on pottery made next door. There’s also a tiny cocktail lounge — just eight seats — inside the Old Forge Distillery, but there’s no sign, so keep your eyes peeled.
Goats on the Roof
Finally, there was no way I was going to drive past a place called Goats on the Roof and not go in. The goats are, as promised, on the roof. You cannot, however, go up on the roof with them to feed them and hang out with them and have a beer, which is what I was foolishly expecting. You also cannot avoid the petting-zoo smell, or walk through the store without bumping into shelf after shelf of tchotchkes and stuffed animals and what any parent is going to immediately clock as “crap.”
That said, if you’ve got a young child who is animal-obsessed, it’s worth a (very quick) trip. Just keep them outside while you deploy an emissary to purchase a feed cup, and make sure they employ the open-palm feeding method. These goats — some of whom are accomplished buckers and climbers — know the drill, and they aren’t going to let a tiny digit get in the way of lunch.
