The Road Trip Issue 2022: Sevier County

Taking on a weekend in the Smokies can feel intimidating. Whether you’re staring up a steep hiking path, sorting out the random chaos of weird attractions or dodging scores of tourists, it’s not always a relaxing getaway, and costs can add up quickly. But it can also provide an extraordinarily gorgeous retreat into the Appalachian wilderness, and if you focus on that, you won’t have to spend much. (Though the Great Smoky Mountains National Park will start implementing a parking fee in March.)

The key to making sense of it all is realizing that Sevier County — which includes Sevierville, Pigeon Forge and Gatlinburg — boasts many versions of the same experience, from hiking trails to dinner shows, roller coasters and more. Just pick the ones that suit you best and block out the rest of the noise. If you’re not sure where to start, find one of the many brochure stands speckling the area and peruse its offerings. You might even find a coupon.

Stay

There are myriad options when it comes to lodging in Sevier County, including cabins, hotels, RV parks, camping sites and more. If you’re interested in gimmicky themed stays, check out spots like The Inn at Christmas Place in Pigeon Forge. If you’re not strapped for cash, find a private cabin with a nice mountain view (and preferably a hot tub) via a short-term rental site like Vrbo or Airbnb. Willing to rough it? Reserve a camping spot in or around the national park. Websites like visitsevierville.com are a good place to start when it comes to lodging. My friend and I found a relatively affordable creekside camper on Airbnb that was nestled away on someone’s property. Be sure to check reviews to gauge how safe and clean a spot is.

Do

Embrace the journey there and back. The three-and-a-half-hour drive from Nashville to Pigeon Forge is beautiful, and I-40 is dotted with all kinds of attractions to pull over and enjoy. On the way there, we stopped at the new Buc-ee’s in Crossville. It was my first time at the Texas-based convenience chain, and I was flabbergasted by its variety of offerings. It boasts an overwhelming display of Buc-ee’s-branded food and merchandise, plus a shopping area that lands somewhere between a Cracker Barrel store and a Target. Among Buc-ee’s many claims to fame are its clean bathrooms (seriously), but I was most impressed by the large selection of ICEE flavors and the brisket sandwich. A new Buc-ee’s slated to open in Sevierville will be the largest location yet. On the way back we made a detour to South Pittsburg, Tenn., near Chattanooga, to check out the Lodge Cast Iron headquarters. There are two Lodge factory stores in Sevier County, but the South Pittsburg location is the original, located right next to the company’s foundries. There you can find factory rejects (which looked just fine to me) at discounted prices. On Oct. 8, the South Pittsburg location will unveil its new cast iron museum. Don’t walk, run to “Lodgetoberfest.”

You’ll know you’ve arrived in Pigeon Forge once you start seeing garish structures like the upside-down WonderWorks entertainment centerand the giant Titanic Museum. The sights create an interesting contrast as you drive down Pigeon Forge’s main strip — outlandish man-made attractions surrounded by the beautiful natural landscape. There are endless opportunities to spend money on random trinkets and experiences — and many billboards and signs prompting you to do so. It’s a trip.

Then, of course, there’s Dollywood. During our visit, most of the rides were shut down due to the storm clouds looming overhead. I was able to catch a ride on the Barnstormer, which provided a taste of the adrenaline rush I was hoping to get on one of the larger coasters. Of all the food we ate, the cinnamon bread at Dollywood’s Grist Mill — which was recommended to me by several sources — stood out. The warm, cinnamon-sugar-coated dessert lived up to its reputation with a luscious, airy texture, accompanied by icing and apple butter. We ate it while watching the Forever Country Show, a song-and-dance revue. There are plenty of other shows to enjoy throughout the park, and don’t miss the Dollywood Express Train Ride. For all the park’s kitschy beauty, my favorite aspect of Dollywood is that it takes care of its community. Not only is it Sevier County’s largest employer, but its employees can also receive free college tuition through the help of Dollywood’s parent company Herschend Enterprises, and the Dollywood Foundation has supported Sevier County residents in many other ways over the years.

Elsewhere in Pigeon Forge, the Moon Pie General Store and Book Warehouse is as sweet as its confectionary namesake, with a book selection that’s random but nevertheless charming. If you’re looking for games to play on your trip or books to read on a balcony overlooking the mountains, you can find them there. I’ve never seen a better puzzle section.

A few miles off Pigeon Forge’s main strip, we shopped at Whaley’s Country Store on Waldens Creek Road and at an antique mall with a 1950s-style diner inside (it has a sign that simply reads “Antique Mall the 50s Diner”) on Wear Valley Road. It’s not the only antique store or ’50s diner on Wear Valley Road. Remember when I said there are many different versions of the same experience? Pick one. We also checked out the Smoky Mountain Brewery, which has locations in both Pigeon Forge and Gatlinburg. We tried all seven of the available beers served in 5-ounce samplers for a total of $8. They were lovely. The plant-based burger I ordered was the best I’ve had yet, and the cover band created an enjoyable atmosphere.

On our last day of the trip, we drove the eight or so miles over to Gatlinburg before heading home. The downtown area is full of wacky activities like themed mini-golf courses and the Ripley’s Believe It or Not! Odditorium. But we opted for Coffee and Company and meandered through the old-timey Mountain Mall’s random selection of shops. We also followed the advice of Heather Scudder, a friend of the Scene who grew up in the area. She recommended the Ogle Dogs at Fannie Farkle’s, a 40-year-old Gatlinburg arcade absolutely dripping with nostalgia. The Ogle Dog may look like a typical corn dog, but the magic lies in the breading — it’s light, fluffy and well-seasoned. Scudder also recommended the Salt and Pepper Shaker Museum, which displays more than 20,000 salt and pepper shakers for a whopping $3 cover charge. During this year’s legislative session, the museum’s 20th anniversary was recognized by a resolution from state Sen. Steve Southerland (R-Morristown).

In trying to sort out all the attractions and activities (and catch the Lodge Factory on the way home before it closed), my friend and I didn’t have time for any hiking. If we had, I would have opted for a hike to a waterfall, like the 5.4-mile Rainbow Fall trail, which is a beautiful if busy option. Check the National Park Service’s website for more information on Smoky Mountain hiking trails. And don’t be like me — skip the tourist traps and take a hike.