Tànsuŏ Rolls Out New Dim Sum Program

Looking back at our “Chefs' Confidential” survey couple months ago, one of the things that many chefs hoped Nashville would finally get was proper dim sum service. While Lucky Bamboo China Bistro does offer some small plates and dumplings, some of those items look suspiciously like the same foodstuffs you can buy next door at K&S World Market.

So it’s good news to hear that Tànsuŏ is in the midst of developing chef Chris Cheung’s own unique take on the tradition of small plates, often served alongside a tea service. Usually, dim sum is served on rolling carts with a variety of rolls, dumplings, buns and cakes, and diners select what they want as the options roll by. At the end of the meal, plates are counted up and everyone is billed accordingly.

Since opening Tànsuŏ, Chef Cheung has been serving dim sum-like small plates as part of the appetizer portion of the menu, and once the restaurant began weekend brunch service, the demand grew even louder. I sat down with Chef Cheung to discuss the history and his attitudes toward the traditions. “It originated with tea houses in Hong Kong,” he explains. “Chefs from the Guandong and Taishan provinces brought their cuisines to Hong Kong where they added artfulness and elegance to the process.”

Not all the dishes are the cute dumplings or neat buns that many Westerners associate with dim sum. Cheung recognizes that he might have to introduce Nashville novices to ingredients like 1,000-year-old eggs and chicken feet by including them in dishes that look more familiar. “I highlight them in vehicles that are easier to accept," he says, "like including the egg in the congee porridge and the chicken feet as part of the gravy served with the Crispy Spring Chicken.”

What many people will really recognize as dim sum are the items that will be offered as part of the cart service. Tànsuŏ plans to offer a selection of both Eastern and Western teas as the base of the traditional service, with options like oolong, jasmine or chrysanthemum. Patrons can order a few larger dishes for the table ranging from a couple of fried rice options and some cold noodles. Then, beginning with their Father’s Day brunch this Sunday, June 18, the carts will begin to roll.

I sampled some of the planned selections including a mix of traditional Hong Kong dim sum items along with other regional street food items, and diners have a lot to look forward to! Many of the items are steamed, for several reasons. Steamed foods handle the transit in the cart better than fried items might, and steamers make it easier to cook and serve more quickly in the vessels.

I especially enjoyed tastes of the Sesame Golden Eggs, ovoids of tofu and mushrooms rolled in sesame seeds, and the Cumin Lamb Dumplings. Cheung plans to eventually add 20 to 25 dishes to the dim sum menu, but that will be over time. Speaking of time, it’s best to get to Tànsuŏ early when they open at 11 a.m. for brunch. Like a good barbecue joint, occasionally proper dim sum restaurants can run out of certain items, and one they’re gone, that’s it. Any place that can produce a replacement set of dumplings on the fly is probably serving frozen food.

I asked Chef Cheung if there were any etiquette tips he might offer to dim sum newbies. He said, “If you’re having a good time, you’re doing it right!” So, beginning with Father’s Day, I guess it’s time to let the good times roll at Tànsuŏ!