Like many breweries, when Southern Grist Brewing Co. first opened its tiny taproom in East Nashville, the food offerings were limited — basically frozen pizzas. But at least they were really good frozen pizzas from 312 Pizza Co. When the time came to move to a new facility at 754 Douglas Ave., Southern Grist decided to really commit to their food program by opening Lauter. In addition to building out a proper kitchen and an attractive dining space, ownership hired talented chef Andrew Coins, who had previously worked at restaurants in Charleston and locally at Miel. Coins brought along long-time Nashville chef Kenji Nakagawa with him to beef up the kitchen staff, another key move.
As I shared prior to the opening of Lauter, Coins put together a really elevated menu of seasonal, internationally inspired plates that are a cut above your usual brewery fare — and other Scene writers and readers seem to agree with me. But at Southern Grist’s production brewery and taproom in The Nations, the food program has been moving in fits and starts.
Since opening, that location has depended on food prepared out of a truck by Pablo Bonacic of SubCulture Cafe, those 312 pizzas again, the Fire n’ Smoke food truck and a brief relationship with their neighbors at Nicky’s Coal Fired to provide the comestibles for taproom patrons. None of those options proved to be an ongoing solution, so Southern Grist decided to go in-house for an answer.
Ownership made the investment to equip a new food truck with a portable kitchen that is pretty much comparable to the one at Lauter and remodeled the taproom space to be more food-friendly. Coins and Nakagawa designed a menu that would allow some of the prep work to take place on Douglas with final touches applied at the Nations location. The result is a new restaurant concept they are calling L by Lauter.
Since opening, they have seen a big increase in dining traffic, estimating that 40 percent of their visitors are new diners. They're open for limited hours, but as more and more people discover this option, they expect to expand service as business warrants. In a neighborhood where lunch options are still a little limited and available parking is pretty scarce, the fact that there is a hidden 120-car free lot behind the brewery should be a major draw.
For now, L by Lauter is open Thursday and Friday from 4 until 9 p.m., Saturday from 11 a.m. until 9 p.m. and Sunday from 11 a.m. until 8 p.m. Earlier in the day, a more limited menu is available, which the brewery staff can finish up until the chefs arrive at dinnertime to prepare a longer bill of fare.
Highlights of the menu I sampled on my first visit include a caesar salad that was a surprise. Made using ribbons of kale instead of romaine, it was tossed with a tangy Caesar dressing and topped with house-pickled red onions, Parmesan, bread crumbs and a shredded cured egg. As someone who personally thinks croutons are bullshit, I really appreciated the crispy toasted crumbs instead.
Speaking of crispy, L’s crispy vinegar potatoes have already become a standout dish on the menu. Like an elevated salt-and-vinegar potato chip, these taters are topped with Georgian adjika powder and Coins’ proprietary fry sauce. For an extra couple of bucks, they’ll torque them up with some Nashville hot schmaltz, or you can order them as curry fries with curry sauce, crème fraîche and honey-roasted peanuts. The third — and probably most decadent — potato option is to get them in the form of poutine, smothered in mushroom gravy, cheese curds and chives.
I also really enjoyed the (apparently non-trademarked) crunch wrap at L, an origami griddled tortilla stuffed with koji-marinated fried chicken, marinated cabbage, house-made pickles, ranch dressing and cheddar cheese. It's almost too big to finish in a single sitting, and I’m still looking for suggestions about how to best bisect or trisect a hexagon for future visits.
Another dish I didn’t get to try that intrigued me was the pork belly burnt ends with a tamarind glaze. Well, there’s always next time, and I’m betting next time won’t be too far off! Since the beginning of the year, Southern Grist has added a liquor license so guests can order wine or spirits, either with or without a meal. The brewery already produces some remarkable food-friendly beers, so don’t be afraid to consult your server for a proper pairing with your food.
L by Lauter is also available for carryout or delivery via Uber Eats, and mark your calendar for the last Wednesday of every month when they’ll be hosting a special Hot Chicken Night that Coins promises will get spicy. After just a short time, this has already become an “L” of an addition to The Nations dining options!
