California Start-Up Debuts Seaweed-Derived Bacon at D’Andrews Bakery and Cafe

I’m not gonna lie to you. Normally if I saw the words “California-based,” “startup,” “bacon” and “seaweed” in the first line of an email, it would probably be heading to the trash folder pretty quickly. But an email exactly like that from UMARO Foods had a few advantages that kept it on my to-do list.

First off, I recognized the name of the company from an episode of entrepreneurial pitch show Shark Tank. (I never miss an episode!) When the developers of the ocean-farmed seaweed protein manufacturers went on the show, they received a $1 million investment from billionaire Mark Cuban, twice what they asked for. That appearance stuck with me.

Second, as I read about their first product, a seaweed-based bacon, I saw that it was being debuted in only three spots across the country, and one of them is at a personal favorite of mine, D’Andrews Bakery and Cafe at 555 Church St. So I got in touch with talented chef David Andrews and headed down to check out the deets.

The idea behind using seaweed instead of other meat substitutes revolves around the sustainability of the plant as a potential protein source that doesn’t require extra water or fuel-intensive farming practices the way that grains do. UMARO chose bacon as their debut product because, well, it’s bacon, and it demonstrates seaweed’s ability to mimic both the crispiness and fatty feel of bacon. The actual strip has both a “meat” part and a “fat” part, with the darker meat section made from sushi-grade nori and the fat coming from sea moss extracts. It also helps that seaweed is already rich in natural umami, that addictive savory and smoky “fifth taste.”

Andrews offered me a raw slice, and honestly, it wasn’t much to look at. I tasted it over his suggestions not to, and it was chewy and crisp at the same time. Not awful, but certainly better after a few minutes in a 325-degree oven to crisp it up a bit more.

Andrews says that the representatives from UMARO basically Googled him and came into the shop to offer some samples. They offered him the chance to be one of only three restaurants in the country to offer an UMARO dish, joining the beloved NYC cafe Egg Shop and Michelin-starred Sorrel Restaurant in San Francisco. Andrews was already a fan of the other two establishments, so he gladly accepted the offer.

D’Andrews features UMARO in a new edition of their popular BLT, made using fresh house-baked focaccia, heirloom tomatoes, hydroponic mixed greens and a custom black pepper/garlic mayo. As part of a sandwich, the UMARO bacon worked splendidly. It was missing a little of the desired fatty mouthfeel of real bacon, but the house-made aioli made up for that completely. The thick-sliced crunchy and chewy UMARO bacon held up next to the slabs of tomato and vibrant greens from Greener Roots.

Andrews charges a little bit extra for the UMARO version over his regular BLT, but it’s a small pittance to possibly being a part of changing our food culture. The chef says they have been selling pretty well, at least a few per day for patrons who notice the little sign on the ordering counter. “Is it something people are going to want as an alternative?” Andrews asks himself. “It’s too soon to tell, but we’re excited to find out.”

If you want to be a part of the grand experiment, D’Andrews is open Monday through Friday from 7 a.m. until 2 p.m. and 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. on weekends.