With two patios, Urban Cookhouse emphasizes al fresco dining
When I first stopped by Urban Cookhouse, the new link in a regional Birmingham-based chainlet of fast-casual restaurants, I was more struck by what the Midtown eatery didn't sell than by what they did. Unlike other grillout-type restaurants such as Steak Out, Off the Grille, Backyard Burgers and the new Cookout that opened just around the corner in the location of the former Arby's on West End, there's not even a burger on the menu. Nor are there any chicken wings, the expected poultry presentation of choice at many casual spots like this. And the greatest shock to my system was the lack of french fries, but after spending some time with management, it all made sense,
Instead, the concept of Urban Cookhouse revolves around meat cooked on two Big Green Egg kamado grills under hoods in the kitchen, featuring locally and regionally sourced ingredients and fresh in-house preparations of all sauces, sides, etc. This philosophy is embodied in their slogan, "Buy Local, Eat Urban," and is also demonstrated as soon as your walk through the door of the attractive little building at 1907 Broadway, formerly the home of Lone Wolf tattoo studio. Immediately on your right upon entering is a display of local artisan food products that aren't even part of the menu at Urban Cookhouse, including Two Roast coffee and Nola granola.
I was struck that a small restaurant would be willing to give up valuable floor space to sell retail products from other vendors, especially since they do also sell some of their own food items in a grab-and-go case near the cash register. But local franchisee Leah Bentley tells me this commitment is a major part of the company's DNA in all of their locations, currently six with more to come soon. Bentley, a 1992 Vanderbilt grad, wants to expand the restaurant's local purchasing efforts as more seasonal ingredients come available, and she says they might even host a small farmers market to help expose more customers to her suppliers.
Clearly I arrived before the lunch rush. (But not before those two guys found the bar.)
"We make everything from scratch," Bentley explains. "We don't have any microwaves or a fryer. Our walk-in is filled with more fresh vegetables than even meat, and we make all of our sauces and vinaigrettes fresh every morning. We really depend on cooking from scratch."
The resulting menu revolves around those two Eggs smoking and grilling away in the kitchen. One of the Eggs is used to grill quick-cooking items like the spicy shrimp and lime-marinated steak, which appear as a part of various dishes on the menu like sandwiches, wraps, salads and plate lunches in a section labeled "Knife and Fork."
Because they use so much charcoal, they also sell BGE lump charcoal at Urban Cookhouse. Good to know if you run out.
The BGE (as the Big Green Egg is known among its devoted fans) operates more as a smoker than a grill for pother Urban Cookhouse proteins. Chipotle-braised pork start out with a kiss of smoke from the charcoal before being braised low and slow until it is shreddable. Turkey and pineapple ham also benefit from a little bit of smoke and are highlights in sandwich section of the menu. I particularly enjoyed El Cubano, a hearty sandwich that features the grilled ham, braised pork and housemade pickles with mustard and provolone staked upon locally baked bred. While the bread wasn't particularly authentic for a Cuban sandwich, it did hold up well to the weighty fillings.
Wood-fired shrimp kebobs
Grilled chicken is made from tenderloin, and I found my sample to be a tad dry, but grilling chicken is always a tough task. I thought it was much better as part of Urban Cookhouse's chicken salad, which Bentley says is one of their signature items in their other restaurant locations. Along with some of their other dishes like broccoli salad, a fruit medley, soup and deli turkey, that chicken salad is available for take home in various size portions. Also popular for takeaway by the dozen are Millie Ray's Orange Rolls, an addictive side dish made by a woman from Montgomery that became a hit at the original Birmingham outpost of Urban Cookhouse.
If you're looking for a full meal to feed you family, the restaurant features a "Take it to the House" menu for $34.95 which includes your choice of enough chicken, pork, ham, turkey and (for an upcharge) steak or shrimp to feed four. You also get two family-sized side dishes selected from rice pilaf, fresh fruit, broccoli salad, cheddar pasta (that's mac-and-cheese to the rest of us), garden salad or roasted vegetables. The deal also includes a half-gallon of tea and four orange rolls. Carry-out is planned to be a big part of Urban Cookhouse's business plan, and they have set aside three spots right in front of the restaurant for folks who call ahead. They'll carry your meal right out to the car, or you could park in one of their 18 spots in the lot hidden behind the building.
You have to try this cookie!
Other beverages include a selection of beer and wine plus a fantastic strawberry lemonade made from strawberries which are pureed in-house. I imagine those berries are about to peak, but the restaurant buys enough for them to puree and freeze for a year's worth of lemonade and milkshakes when they are in season. Instead of (or in addition to) one of those milkshakes, Bentley recommends one of their brown sugar brownies or half-baked cookies served with ice cream and chocolate syrup in a precious little cast-iron skillet for dessert.
Prices at Urban Cookhouse are pretty affordable, with no menu item over $10. A lunch of an Urban Cowboy steak sandwich or Bentley's favorite Turkey Crunch comes with a side dish and will get you in and out quickly for less than a Hamilton. Unless you order one of those cookies or a shake. And you should.
With the advent of pleasant weather, I expect the patio area of Urban Cookhouse to become a popular lunch or dinner spot. Once the Vandy students discover it, perhaps it will take some of the pressure off the SatCo patio, and nearby hotels have already started asking for menus to augment their own room service.
If you get a chance to drop by and try more of the menu than I did, let us know what you think in the comments below.
Urban Cookhouse
1907 Broadway
Nashville, TN 37203
615-953-6449
