Riddim N Spice
It’s a bit of a no-duh to say that 2020 changed everything. Best-case scenario: A lot of awful stuff forces us to finally start talking, acting and holding each other accountable. Worst case? Honestly, let’s not even go there. You’re a human who can read. You know we’re in the eye of a shitstorm so big we don’t know which way is out.
It’s an exhausting time to be a thoughtful person, and a great way to stay sane is to take refuge in small victories. Did your boss finally have to admit you’re more productive remotely than you are when your butt is nailed to your office chair 40 hours a week? Bask in it. Did you realize you may never again have to embrace a stranger just because they scream, “Sorry, I’m a hugger!” as they thrust themselves upon you? Rejoice.
One small win we can all enjoy: to-go food at its peak. The breadth, sophistication and execution of takeout in Nashville has never been better, and it’s time to cash in.
Here are 20 of the best to-go items in Nashville now. #CarryOutAndCarryOn.
Breakfast
Bowser biscuit sandwich, $5
Al’s black-pepper/Parmesan biscuits are destination-worthy on their own. The Bowser ups the ante with egg, cheese, bacon and sausage. Of this double-meat scenario, Al’s menu simply says: “Yep.”
Kouign-amann, $4.50
Billed simply as a “croissant with sugar,” this pastry is so much more than that. Its name comes from the Breton words for “cake” and “butter,” and at Brightside Bakery, the bottom is so crisp and caramelized you can knock on it. We’d expect nothing less of a type of confection The New York Times once called “the fattiest pastry in all of Europe.”
The O.G., $4.50
If you’re gonna eat a doughnut, you should be able to taste the dough. The O.G. at The Donut and Dog delivers, with caramel sweetness from a bourbon-vanilla glaze, set off by a sprinkle of cabernet salt. Yep, that’s salt made with wine, so it’s basically a boozy brunch item you can legally eat while driving.
Snacks
Smoked trout salad, $12
If there’s a faster route to umami than smoked fish, I don’t know it. But smoking stuff is a pain, so let Cafe Roze do it for you! While it was once only a special, their luscious smoked trout salad is now a staple at their bodega, and all of our snack times are better for it.
Salmon, andouille sausage, half-pound for $11
Did you know you can get brined and smoked stuff by the pound at Mitchell Deli? Last time I stopped in for a grilled chicken-portobello sandwich, I scored lox and andouille, both of which are still being turned out by the now-shuttered Rudie’s Seafood & Sausage. Small victories, indeed.
Lumpia, $8.50 for 12
Everything is better bite-size, and egg rolls are no exception. Sold ready to fry at home, these 2-inch Filipino stunners from Red Perch are packed with pork, shrimp, Chinese celery, water chestnuts and green onion. The seasoning inside is so addictive you can easily put down a dozen without blinking.
Matzo ball soup, $5 for a cup, $9.50 for a bowl
Yes, it’s hot outside — but do not be deterred! This soup is a perfect blend of chicken-noodle and matzo-ball, and that’s the comfort food we all need right now. (Real talk: I’ve sipped the broth cold, and it is good. Food for thought in these post-judgment culinary times.)
Cheese curds, $6.99
Someone once told me the owner of Twilight Tavern said their food was less “farm-to-table” and more “Sysco-to-table.” I don’t know if it’s true, but I adore it and laugh about it constantly. Own your shit! And then pull up a barstool for some gooey, golden-brown fried cheese served — as God and Wisconsin intended — with a side of ranch.
Cauliflower, $12
Folk
Lyra’s oven-roasted cauliflower is a study in sauce. It’s accented by tart pickled raisins and puffed freekeh (a nutty grain), but the star is the cardamom-carrot sauce. The dressing is sweet, sturdy and blazing orangey-yellow in color. Paired with a bright-pink Foxy Brown cocktail (gin, hibiscus, ginger), it’s the ultimate eat-with-your-eyes combo.
Kohlrabi Caesar, $14
If you’ve gotten a CSA this spring, you’ve Googled kohlrabi. If not, the short story is it’s a member of the cabbage family that may give off turnip, radish or parsnip vibes. At Folk, they use it as the crunchy, juicy backbone of a Caesar salad, topping it with salty cheese, crunchy croutons and trout roe for a poppy, briny finish.
Entrées
Half bird, $12
If you’re short on joy, beeline it to Riddim N Spice. The sunny Caribbean spot is known for its succulent chicken, which pairs perfectly with cucumber-mango slaw, Jamaican red rice ’n’ peas and Bajan macaroni pie. The latter is a traditional dish of Barbados, made with ketchup and mustard for extra zing.
Spicy Noodle (bun bo hue), $13.50
Aromatic is the word that springs to mind with this specialty noodle soup. Far East starts the broth with pork bones and oxtails; simmers it with garlic, shallot, lemongrass and chili paste; and then tops it with beef shank and Vietnamese pork before serving it over vermicelli. If you’re craving pho but want something new, this is it.
Tantanmen ramen, $13
Where the Chinese have Dan Dan Noodles, the Japanese have Tantanmen. At Otaku, the ultra-savory veggie-miso broth is accented with riced cauliflower and smoked tofu before it’s finished with sesame, chili oil and a spice bomb. Forego the egg to take it from vegetarian to vegan.
Double cheeseburger, $15
Nashville has too many good cheeseburgers. Given how good they are at Bare Bones Butcher, Redheaded Stranger and Dino’s, I’m almost miffed to find out Mother’s Ruin makes a great one too. It’s not much different on paper — aged cheddar, sesame bun, lettuce, pickles — and to my eye the only thing they do differently is mix the shrettuce with the secret sauce (a move I’m stealing). But somehow it adds up to a standout.
Meatballs, $19
The meatballs at City House are an embarrassment of riches. Made with pork shoulder and pizza-dough bread crumbs, they leach a little fat as they bake, adding richness to the piquant tomato ragu. Served on top of grits, these meatballs are stone-cold stunners.
Crawfish mafalde, $22
It’s lucky for us that the owners of Nicky’s Coal Fired never outgrew the chain-restaurant cajun-chicken pasta of our ’90s youth. During quarantine, they set about making a grown-up version. The result: a decadent crawfish variety laced with pork-cheek bacon and spring onions served over mafalde — a long, curly-edged pasta that’s literally made to catch all the spicy cream sauce it can. We are not worthy.
Stir-Fried Noodz, $14
In Cantonese and Sichuan cooking, black-bean sauce is a staple. Taste it once and you’ll get why. It’s savory, aromatic, sharp, sweet and spicy. TKO adds it to crunchy Chinese greens, cabbage, carrots and toothsome chili noodles (custom-made by local Mr. Aaron’s Goods) for quintessential Chinese takeout food, expertly amped up yet refined.
Chile verde, $11.95
I’m a sucker for anything that reads “muy caliente” on a menu. It’s never that spicy outside of Mexico, right? Wrong. This pork dish is stewed in a seriously spicy green-chile sauce. The one reprieve: It’s served with flour tortillas for wrapping, dipping or simply triaging your tongue.
Sweets
Spicy chocolate pie, $3
Only quitters put decadent desserts on pause just because it’s summertime, and Arnold’s Country Kitchen owner Kahlil Arnold is no quitter. His spicy chocolate pie feels like a remedy for the heat, with just enough spicy to cut through the fudgey goodness. Order early; it sells out every week.
Strawberry cake, $60
Speaking of sellouts, I’ve been able to score an entire strawberry cake from Thistle Farms exactly once, and it was when I called first thing Tuesday morning for a Friday pickup. With three layers of whipped frosting, robust strawberry flavor and a brilliant-pink color, this cake is a beauty that’s also a beast.
