The Nations, the neighborhood, is booming and ever-changing. But The Nations, the bar, still has its small-town charm. It’s staffed with friendly folks who’ll keep your drinks coming while you watch whatever hockey or basketball game happens to be on the four or five TVs. (I know that doesn’t sound like many compared to some sports bars, but it’s a small joint, and the screens are well-placed.) And the menu goes above and beyond traditional bar food — the veggie burger is housemade, and the rotating specials are always interesting (I recently sampled the vegan nachos with cashew “cheese” and meatless chorizo, and they were shockingly delicious). But The Nations’ simple, well-executed BLT is my favorite. Unlike the average BLT, this one comes with a smear of pesto, giving the sandwich a fresh and herby flavor. I’m a vegetarian, so I skipped the pig strips and added an egg ($1), which dripped yolk all over my tray, making for a dipping sauce for the crispy tater tots. Because, oh yeah, this $8 sandwich comes with a giant heap of your choice of fries or tots — and you definitely want to go for the tots. These heavily seasoned, deep-golden nuggets are what all potatoes strive to be.

