When it comes to whiskey, I’m not a snob about proof, although I have plenty of friends who look down their noses into a glass that isn’t barrel proof or at least 120 proof. I do enjoy a cask-strength dram every now and then, but my sweet spot for whiskey is usually between 90 and 110 proof.
And fortunately for me, three fantastic whiskeys in that range have come across my review shelf, and each benefits from the conscious choice to release it at that particular ABV. If you like a little bite in your bourbon without setting your uvula on fire, you might want to seek these out!
The first is the latest release in Hard Truth Distilling Co.’s collaborative series of whiskeys between the distillery’s master distiller Bryan Smith and the co-founders of Mellencamp Whiskey Company, Levi Colson and Hud Mellencamp. I’m a consistent fan of Hard Truth and have enjoyed just about everything released from their Nashville, Ind., distillery. Like their previous Mellencamp collabs, the whiskey is inspired by the art of Hud’s famous father, John Mellencamp.
The latest release is named after one of pere Mellencamp's paintings, a large creation featuring house paint, oil and charcoal on Masonite titled “American Odd.” The painting is reproduced on the bottle label of American Odd Sweet Mash Bourbon Whiskey, the fourth sweet mash whiskey from the collaborative team. This particular release is a bottled-in-bond product, meaning it must be bottled at 100 proof after aging at least four years in oak. All the juice must come from a single facility during the same distilling season, and this one happens to be made using 100 percent Indiana grains, specifically 82 percent corn and 18 percent rye.
Retailing at around $70 per bottle, this final release of the Mellencamp series is another winner. The initial aromas in the glass were, well, intoxicating. Sweet caramel and hickory on the nose along with floral peach blossoms that were delightful. Despite the higher proof, I buried my nose so deep in the glass that I ended up spilling some of it on my shirt, dammit.
I was mad at myself for wasting any of this spicy, vanilla and dark honey elixir. Hints of black pepper were a nice later component to appear during the long finish that resolved to a fruity plumminess, and the proof level was ideal for my liking. Strong enough to announce itself, but not so strong as to anesthetize my tastebuds. The palate-coating mouthfeel made this a sipper, not a mixer, so hopefully the bottle will last a while on my home bar. At that price, I’ll definitely seek out a backup bottle in case it doesn’t!
The second fine find I’ve found is another in the Distillery Reserve Series from Bardstown Bourbon Company. BBC has been making some fantastic spirits for other companies for years, but they’re only recently getting the deserved respect for releases under their own label. Their latest release is Bardstown Bourbon Hokkaido Mizunara Oak Barrel Finish, and it’s indeed a rare bird.
First, they start with a thoughtful blend of whiskeys aged from nine to 18 years. Those already remarkable whiskeys have been blended and then placed into just six 66-gallon barrels made from Mizunara oak trees from the hidden forests of Hokkaido, Japan. These trees grow slowly in the volcanic soil of Hokkaido and produce barrels that introduce crazy spice flavors to the already oak, vanilla and caramel of the American whiskey.
The result is so complex, that it’s almost like incense on the nose — woody, spicy and nutty. In the glass, there’s an almost umami character to the long finish, and the fact that the whiskey was finished for an extra 28 months in a custom-designed aging warehouse created to maximize wood extraction and proof increase makes this an intensely flavorful whiskey.
Packaged in 375 ml bottles at a robust 109.3 proof for $99, Bardstown’s latest release is a helluva ride! The limited release will be available for purchase in the distillery’s gift shop and Louisville tasting room starting this Friday, July 11. It’s worth the road trip.
Finally, a whiskey with a mission from Green River Distilling in Owensboro, Ky. To honor the 250th anniversary of the U.S. Army and offer a nod to the military air drops that have supplied our troops for decades, a parachute team dropped from thousands of feet in the sky to deliver the first bottle of U.S. Army 250th Anniversary Bourbon to a group of veterans and active-duty military personnel last month.
To continue the symbolism of the product, Green River bottled it at 111.1 proof, a reference to the 11/11 date of Veterans Day. Retailing in the $50 per bottle range, this whiskey is made from a blend of barrels aged four to seven years and filled with a special mash bill of 77 percent corn, 14 percent rye and 9 percent malted barley.
Available at Green River’s facilities in Owensboro and Louisville, at select Army bases and at a limited number of retail stores around the region, this light-bodied whiskey is an easy sipper considering the price and the proof. Slightly spicy and minty with elements of dark fruits and toffee, this would be a great present to any Army veterans or active military on your gift list. Plus a portion of sales proceeds will go to several organizations that contribute to the quality of life of America’s soldiers and their families, so you can do good and drink well at the same time!
