Venerable meat-and-three
Swett'shas been around for nearly 58 years, but it's just taken a pretty bold step: adding a fairly diverse menu of barbecue specialties, slow-cooked in its brand-new rotisserie barbecue pit, which is fired by hickory wood alone — no gas.
“To quote James Brown, Papa’s got a brand-new bag,” said David Swett, who owns and operates the restaurant at 28th Avenue North and Clifton, which his parents opened in September 1954.
As I report in Food Biz in today's City Paper and online in the Nashville Post, the barbecue is served up from a separate corner of the restaurant, a barbecue-centric smaller version of Swett's full cafeteria line.
Smaller, but not too small. When I stopped by at lunchtime last week, Swett’s had eight barbecue entrees on offer — not just the obvious pork shoulder and pork ribs, but also smoked pork chops, chicken, wings, beef brisket, beef ribs and rib tips. Also on the line was Swett’s version of hot chicken, which looks like regular fried chicken but is infused with spice in the frying oil. There were also seven sides, including fresh turnip greens.
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