I cannot poach an egg.
Believe me, I have tried. I have tried an embarrassing number of times, in fact, utilizing every trick recommended to me by every culinary blog in the world. I've used boiling water and non-boiling water in both large and small pots. I've tried gently swirling the water, vigorously whirlpooling it and adding white vinegar to it. I've tried fresh eggs and old eggs, and I've tried dropping the egg into the water with a spoon, a cup and cracked directly out of the shell from a variety of heights. My efforts result in inedible mayhem every single time. I am the worst egg poacher in America.
So when I say the poached eggs at Steadfast Coffee in Germantown are miracles, know that I'm not just being hyperbolic. To me, they are miraculous — magically contained snow-white orbs cooked so perfectly that the golden yolk is just thick enough to slowly flow all over the top of Steadfast's porridge or made-in-house brioche toast, but not a second before you gleefully pop it with the prong of a fork.
Currently, Steadfast's egg sandwich ($9) is my favorite of their poached-egg delivery mechanisms. A tender brioche bun is sliced in half and stacked with smashed avocado, arugula and pink slices of tangy pickled onion, then topped with two of those splendid poached eggs (you can get them scrambled if you'd prefer, you monster). Though the name suggests otherwise, it's impossible to eat this dish like a traditional sandwich — once you pierce the eggs, this beast gets messy, so I recommend saving yourself the yolk-covered embarrassment and enjoying it with a knife and a fork as two open-face halves.
The savory porridge ($9) — a generous bowl of creamy polenta topped with crispy kale chips, mushroom confit and a spoonful of ricotta (which mixes in to make the polenta even creamier) — also offers a fantastic excuse to put an egg on it (for an extra $1.50). And if you'd rather just have a small, serviceable breakfast to go with your coffee, you can get two poached eggs, brioche toast and seasonal preserves for $7.
Because really, the reason you're probably at Steadfast in the first place is because you want some coffee. Good coffee. And while the food is definitely destination-worthy, Steadfast's coffee is the true star of their offerings. Made with beans roasted at their roastery in Franklin, Steadfast's coffee drinks are some of the smoothest and most delightfully nuanced I've ever had (and it's worth noting I'm from Seattle — I've had a lot of coffee). That's not surprising, considering the business is co-founded by Jamie Cunningham, who founded Bongo Java's signature drink program.
If you're paying attention, you're already familiar with their Matchless Coffee Soda, a refreshing bubbly drink composed of flash-chilled coffee, citrus and Demerara sugar that was deemed "Best Coffee Soda" in our Best of Nashville 2015 issue. It was a staple for hot summer days. But this winter, their butterscotch latte has been keeping me warm. Their own butterscotch syrup (which is, sadly, not available for sale — hint hint, Steadfast), adds a sweet and buttery flavor to the drink. While the addition of butterscotch may sound like a one-way ticket to Cavity Town, this latte is much more subtle than the barely drinkable candy made with sugar-laden syrups that are offered elsewhere. It's delicate.
But I'm gushing. While Steadfast, which will celebrate its one-year anniversary this spring, is remarkably capable and consistent, there have been a few missteps (and I'm not just talking about the slope of the floor when you first walk in the door that, thankfully, I was not the only person to stumble over when entering for the first time). The couscous vegetable soup that came as a side to the sweet barbecue chicken sandwich was much too peppery. Despite the fact the thick broth was packed with supposedly flavorful vegetables like carrots, tomatoes and onions and large, soft pearls of couscous, black pepper was the only flavor my tongue could decipher. I enjoyed it at first — I love black pepper — but even I had to cry "uncle" after a few spoonfuls.
The greens that came as a side to the breakfast sandwich were also insultingly overseasoned, this time with salt. Each bite forced me to suck down several gulps of water, not just to cleanse the palate, but also to relieve my tongue of its sodium burn. That same salty vinaigrette appeared on the roasted vegetable salad, but it was barely noticeable in the otherwise fantastic and brightly colored mess of greens, roasted golden beets and carrots, pickled red beets and pistachios (I just wish that salad weren't $10 — as delicious as it is, under no circumstance is that an entrée-sized salad, even for lunch).
Though they've been around for less than a year and already have a lock on some of the best coffee drinks in town, Steadfast Coffee still has more in store for Nashville — they just opened a second location, Steadfast Commons, at Third Avenue and Demonbreun, and it will appeal to the booze-loving SoBro crowd by also featuring a cocktail menu.
And if you'd rather have your coffee before leaving the house, Steadfast also offers bags of beans so you can brew at home. But what's the point of bothering to make Steadfast Coffee at home if you can't enjoy it with one of the best breakfast sandwiches you've ever had? Unless, of course, you've mastered the ability to poach an egg. In which case, bully for you. That just leaves more egg sandwiches for me.
Email Arts@nashvillescene.com
