It would be easy not to trust
Bakersfield, the new taco and tequila emporium at 201 Third Ave. S. (That's the other side of the ground floor of the Encore condominium, the same building that houses Etch and The Farmhouse.) The first thing that raised my eyebrow was the fact that restaurant promising "Authentic Mexican Street Food" is based out of Ohio, a state that's better known for bratwurst than elotes. Second, as soon as you enter the door, you can mentally go through the checklist of features and decor that epitomize almost every trendy new restaurant that has opened in town over the past five years.
Roll-up garage doors? Check. Corrugated steel and reclaimed barnwood wall coverings? Roger that. Edison bulb light fixtures? Yep. (Don't these places know that those bulbs make interior photography next to impossible?) A large music-themed mural covering a wall? Gotta have one of those. PBR served in cowboy boot glass mugs? Quelle horreur! Long wooden communal tables? The better to share those tacos over.
But if you allow yourself to think negatively about these cliches and skip a trip to Bakersfield, you might miss out on some darned fine comfort food in a convivial environment. The restaurant bills itself as a spot for "Tacos, Tequila and Whiskey," and the menu concentrates on those sweet spots. The full bar serves more than 100 tequilas and whiskeys along with a nice selection of rotating craft beers and Mexican brews on tap and in bottles. They also make several different versions of the traditional margarita and sangria available by the glass or the pitcher.
The food menu starts off with Mexican restaurant standards like corn chowder, chips and salsa, guacamole and queso. The cheese dip is particularly notable for the opportunity to add optional black beans, chorizo or house pickled jalapeños. With chorizo, the queso turns into something more like an authentic fundido.
Three salads are named after country music icons, although Johnny, June and Willie aren't usually associated with the "Bakersfield Sound." Tortas and tostadas are hearty and filled with fresh vegetables and slow-cooked meats, with the braised short rib being a real highlight of my first meal. That same rib meat also appears in one of Bakersfield's creative tacos along with queso fresco, cilantro and crema plus white onion and radish to add a little crunch.
These tacos are not huge, but they are comparable with other taquerias in town in size and price at around $4 apiece. Note that they are all served on corn tortillas, so if you're a flour fan, you're out of luck here. I'd suggest that you try to overcome your prejudices so that you can at least try the mole taco made with Oaxacan-style braised chicken and a rich sauce that tastes like it was actually created in the Mexican tradition of building flavors over time instead of just opening a can.
During my two visits, I managed to taste my way through most of the taco menu, with the Short Rib, Pollo Rojo and Cochinita Pibil being the standouts. I also liked the Pastor with its addition of pineapple for some sweetness, but then again I like ham and pineapple pizza, so I recognize I might be an outlier. A surprising item on the menu is the Huitlacoche made with what is traditionally known as "corn smut." The menu at Bakersfield probably listened to their marketing department and describe the fungus as "corn truffles." Whatever you call it, the Huitlacoche taco is delicious if you're brave enough to try it.
Open for lunch and dinner seven days per week, Bakersfield has quickly become a favorite spot to pregame before the puck drops at the Bridgestone or to grab a quick midday taco. If you get the chance to run through the menu, share your comments in the space below.
Bakersfield
201 Third Ave. S.
Nashville, TN 37201
(615) 522-0970
