For dinner in Antioch, the options are seemingly endless: pizza and beer at Slim & Husky’s; Laotian and Thai classics at the legendary King Market; garnachas and tamales at Antigua Cocina Guatemalteca. But on Antioch’s southwest side, Everest Restaurant and Bar is set on taking one of the world’s unsung cuisines to the next dimension.
The fact that Himalayan cuisine is not considered one of the great culinary traditions is an explainable tragedy. Himalayan, by definition, does not refer to a specific country, as with Italian or French cuisine. Nor does it refer to a hyper-local regional cuisine, à la Cajun or Cantonese. The Himalayas themselves are of course a geographic feature, dividing more than they link the disparate mountain nations that call the region home. So while similarities are strong, it’s unsurprising that the “cousins, not siblings” cuisines of Asia’s most uncompromising region are often drowned out by more prominent fare, like Indian and American Chinese. Everest rises to the challenge, however, putting Nepal, Bhutan and Northern India on a plate (or thali) with aplomb.
When entering Everest, you’re treated to a pristine interior, complete with a mirrored bar and a stage whose performances I’ve to date unfortunately missed. The real treat begins when you’re presented with the menu, a sprawling beast that at first glance reveals an Indian influence, all curries and korma and chaat, before Nepalese staples work their way into the picture (think noodle soups and fragrant roasted meats). Bhutanese dishes, coming straight from the world’s happiest and most remote mountain kingdom, are a welcome closing surprise, and the beverage menu offers a range of ways to help you digest what you’ve devoured. If you’ve brought friends (or a big appetite), you can try them all.
Lamb thali at Everest Restaurant and Bar
First up is Northern India, and while we could go with classics like chicken curry, samosas or aloo gobi, Everest’s lamb thali is the best item on offer, bringing a gauntlet of flavors to the table. Thali — or a selection of small dishes served with rice on a traditional plate — can be found in every region of India, from tangy eggplant curries in Maharashtra to fiery shrimp vindaloos in Goa. At Everest, expect a bold lamb gravy without the gaminess of lesser curries, along with peppery dal (lentil stew), fried potatoes and veggies, various pickles and relishes, and gulab jamun, or doughnut in sweet syrup.
If lamb or mutton is not your bag, no worries. Chicken and pork thalis are also available, along with Anglo-Indian staples like butter chicken and chicken tikka masala. But with the quality of traditional Indian food closer to downtown, why play it safe with more common fare?
Next up is Nepal, home to Mount Everest and the centerpiece of the whole Himalayan enterprise. You’ll immediately notice a heavy Chinese influence on the Nepalese section of the menu. Chinese tourists are not uncommon in Nepal — the mountain nation welcomed almost 200,000 Chinese visitors in 2019 — and dishes like chow mein and vegetable fried rice are ubiquitous in Nepalese cuisine. While these are worthwhile options for newbies, Everest maintains a variety of more traditional dishes on the menu. As an appetizer, go for the chili chicken momo, a dumpling with the shape of a potsticker, the thickness and bounce of a baozi, and a taste unlike anything else in Nashville. While you can get the momos deep-fried, steamed or dunked in an aromatic broth, the chili version sees them pan-fried with hot peppers and onions on a fajita skillet. It’s quite good.
Central Kirana Store
For an entrée, the chicken thukpa will do. While this is the quintessential Himalayan dish, India and Tibet also lay claim to this hearty noodle soup — but the Nepalese version at Everest might be the best of the bunch. It’s nothing short of comfort in a bowl, with chilis, herbs and a rich bone broth complimenting starchy noodles with a wonderful chew. It might be melodramatic to say this dish transports you to a distant Himalayan village, but what is life without imagination?
Last comes Bhutan, which represents the culinary completionist’s dream. Who can say they’ve sampled Bhutanese food? Famous for its sky-high peace index and a difficult airport situation, Bhutan is not the wonderland that its Indian and Chinese neighbors are when it comes to food. But Bhutanese food is nothing if not quality; it’s a cuisine hell-bent on getting the small stuff right.
Case in point: kewa datshi, a hearty dish of potatoes, asparagus and chili stewed with fresh cheese and a boatload of salted butter. It isn’t all that spicy, and the vegetarian aspect keeps the canvas for flavor relatively plain. But it works fabulously when, on paper, it absolutely shouldn’t. It’s unctious, salty, fatty; a hearty dish that wouldn’t be out of place on a long-haul cargo ship or a Grand Canyon mule train. And it does it all without any meat and at a relatively low price point. It might be Antioch’s most obscure dish, but it’s also one of the most satisfying. Wash it all down with a cup of sweet Nepali milk tea.
Central Kirana Store
This isn’t all to say that Everest is a perfect restaurant. It’s not inexpensive — $20 for the thali is a bit high for the portion sizes. You could call the dim interior charming, perhaps, but certainly not flashy. Just down Bell Road a half-mile, the temporarily shuttered Rajdhani Grocery and Cafe does curries and Chinese stuff significantly better. (The grocery part of Rajdhani is still open.) But Everest’s melding of cuisines makes it a great way to spend a lazy Antioch evening. While Rajdhani lays claim to Indian, Chinese and Nepalese cuisines, Everest is truly Himalayan.
If you’re heading back north, stop at Central Kirana Store, a small Nepalese grocery near the corner of Nolensville and Haywood Lane. It’s packed to the gills with foodstuffs and novelties, and it’s impossible to leave without finding something worth taking home. But even without a visit to Kirana, you can still make a date at one of South Nashville’s truly unique eateries.
