Fan of Thai? Yes Siam

Pla lard prig, deep-fried snapper, at Siam Cafe.

In the twenty years since I started going to Siam Cafe on McCall Street in Tusculum almost nothing has changed. There's still a cafeteria-style set-up of steam table options for takeout and a western-style dining room and a Thai-style dining room. The latticework walls that divide up the three spaces are still in place. The wall paneling is the same.  

In fact, only the knick knacks seem different since my father and I used to eat there in the 1980s. Except that in the interval, the food quality plummeted, so much so that I declined to review it on a visit in the mid-1990s.

We tagged along recently with a group who go to Siam almost weekly. The company was fantastic, and the food? As good as the early days. Crisp, piping hot pla lard prig, fried just past that point where the skin frizzles into a caramelized, shattery sheet that doesn't seem to have a drop of grease. Squid salad with bright, fresh flavors and no skimping on ingredients. Pad thai that's remarkably, consistently good.

As casual dinners go, it was a home run — old friends we cherish and rarely see, and a once-familiar place that's worth revisiting.

Like what you read?


Click here to become a member of the Scene !