Here in our dining section, we at the Scene endeavor to bring you news and reviews on local hot spots and trends. This week, we present overdue rundowns on a trifecta of new — and new-to-us — eateries that serve up barbecue, sandwiches and/or drinks. Don't sleep on 'em as long as we did.
Clawson's Pub and Deli, 1205 Fourth Ave. S.
Owned and operated by husband-and-wife team Jens and Ann Clawson, this pub-slash-deli in the Track One building offers the sort of casual but well-executed lunch fare much needed in the burgeoning Wedgewood-Houston neighborhood. Opened eight months ago, Clawson's specializes in hearty-portion sandwiches — a club, ham and Brie, tuna salad, chicken salad, a BLT and several more — and boasts vegan options and a chalkboard menu promising the "good vibes are free."
Unlike most laid-back deli-style restaurants, Clawson's has a staggeringly extensive beer selection that's likely as good or better than that of your neighborhood watering hole. IPAs, APAs, ambers, Kolsches, lagers, Pilsners and more are available in cans and bottles, and drafts often include local brews from the likes of Little Harpeth and Czann's. There are also plenty of non-alcoholic options, including complimentary lemon-and-cucumber water.
Clawson's makes its own mixed-olive mayo, which is outstanding on the salami-and-provolone No. 4. Sides include chili, coleslaw, pickled eggs and pretzels, a selection of chips and more. Atmosphere in the old brick building is pleasant as well, with solid background music (I heard Johnny Cash and Fontella Bass on my last visit) and a small amount of seating. Space can get a little tight when there's a lunch rush, so be prepared to take your sammie to go on busy days. —DPR
Constant Smoke BBQ, 3414 Lebanon Pike, Hermitage
Constant Smoke BBQ isn't exactly new — it's been operating out of a small yellow-green trailer and adjacent "Butt Hut" for three years now in the parking lot of Ace Plumbing Co. But it was new to me until Belcourt programming director Toby Leonard, an off-the-grid chowhound of some repute, came by bragging about the best brisket sandwich he'd found in Nashville. Days later, I was sitting in Ace Plumbing's parking lot balancing a sackful of foil-wrapped sandwiches.
"No Sauce Needed," owner Tim Horton's sign declares, and I took him at his word. The brisket ($6 regular, $8 jumbo, $12 pound) was indeed some of the best I've had around here: It wasn't larded down with slabs of inedible fat, like so much Middle Tennessee brisket, yet it was juicy, fall-apart tender and thoroughly permeated with smoke. The regular barbecue pork sandwich ($4.50, jumbo $6) was flavorful and studded with chunks of bark, just as I like it, but my kids preferred the hefty smoked pork-sausage link ($7) — which I suspect would have been even better if we'd taken Horton's advice and crisped it up at home, rather than having him heat it in the microwave.
As with all things barbecue, there's a story behind Constant Smoke: how cheapskate bosses laid off Horton from his print-media delivery job after 24 years; how he struck up a conversation at a nearby convenience store with Ace proprietor Mike Gregory and learned he was a fellow barbecue aficionado; how Horton decided to put his 20-year barbecue expertise to work with Ace's smoker. Now he's got a commercial kitchen space in back of Ace, and on Wednesday nights — Bike Night — he fits so many motorcycles in the lot they'd topple like dominoes if one tipped, Pee-Wee's Big Adventure style.
Be advised that there's not really anywhere to sit; there's not much in the way of sides beyond baked beans, chips and slaw; and chicken is rarely on the menu. Also be advised that the woman standing behind us in line said Constant Smoke's St. Louis-style dry ribs ($20 slab) were the best she's ever had. Next visit? —JR
Duke's, 1000 Main St.
Just as much as (if not more than) the sandwiches and drink specials, the draw of this Five Points bar in the former home of Nuvo Burrito is the vibe. Open 15 hours a day, seven days a week, Duke's — launched about three months back by local rock 'n' rollers Joey Plunket and Sara Nelson — frequently sports members of local bands like JEFF the Brotherhood, Hans Condor, Faux Ferocious, Music Band and Promised Land Sound behind the bar, the deli counter or the DJ booth. Most importantly, the tunes are solid gold: Classic punk and soul, indie, garage and psych rock play around the clock. It can get a bit loud when DJs really get going — sound clangs around some thanks to the brick and cinder-block walls — but you're probably not headed to a Five Points bar at 1 a.m. to do some light reading or whisper to a friend.
Two popular daily specials are the simple beer-and-shot combos: The Patriot (a mug of Coors and a shot of Four Roses whiskey) and the Federale (Tecate in a can and a shot of Sauza silver tequila) both go for $6 a pop 'round the clock, not just at Happy Hour. Over at the deli counter, Duke's serves up a wide array of sandwiches piled high with Boar's Head products. There are nine sammies on the menu — the Italian and the 2:17 Special, the latter a turkey-and-avocado with chips on top, are my personal faves — but you can also build your own made-to-order. Sandwiches are served on Bobby John Henry Bakery bread, hot or cold (go hot, trust me) with chips and pickled pepperoncini.
The motto at Duke's is a seemingly tongue-in-cheek Elvis Costello nod ("No Dancing"), and the management doesn't overdo it on self-promotion. Business seems to do well thanks to good vibes, word-of-mouth and a little bit of social media, so I suppose this write-up might be considered "blowing up the spot." Sorry, early birds. Couldn't sit on the secret any longer. —DPR
Email arts@nashvillescene.com
