Every bite of food from Athens Family Restaurant tastes a little bit sweeter knowing we almost lost the longtime local spot. Though Athens is no longer on Eighth Avenue South, the new location on Belmont Boulevard (in the building that used to house PM) is a lovely alternative.
I wandered over there on a beautiful March morning to try the Bouyatsa Breakfast ($9). The dish consists of Greek custard baked in filo and topped with powdered sugar, cinnamon and fresh fruit. It’s a great dish for those who wake up with a sweet tooth. The top layers of the filo are toasted and slightly buttery, while the custard inside provides a subtle sweetness and chewy texture that contrasts wonderfully with the flakiness of the dough. The dusting of powdered sugar isn’t overpowering, and the fruit — in my case, blueberries — provides a pop of flavor and acidity to round out the dish.
Just about every bite produces a satisfactory, borderline symphonic crunchy sound. Wash it all down with some coffee, which my server kept full and warm for me the whole time I was there. Long live Athens Family Restaurant.
