Pity the fool who prematurely takes the foil wrapper off one end of Athens’ proto-burger, or at least pass them some spare napkins, because they’re gonna make a mess: This superb twist on classic Greek street food absolutely needs a handle. It’s a stout patty of ground lamb seasoned with Chef Adel’s sweet ’n’ savory “Love Spice” blend, stuffed into a large, warm pita with a generous helping of salad and tangy tzatziki. The sandwich itself is plenty to make a meal, but you can have your choice of side for $2 more. You can do it healthy, with Greek vegetables or a rice pilaf, but if you’re tempted by the fries, you won’t be disappointed: Cut medium-thick, they occasionally have a crispy strip of potato skin attached and come sprinkled with feta and oregano.
One important note: the Melrose neighborhood staple is no longer open 24 hours on weekends (the new hours are 7 a.m.-10 p.m. Monday through Saturday and 7 a.m.-9 p.m. Sunday), so if you plan to sop up your booze with this mighty beast or something from Athens’ outstanding breakfast menu, you’d better start drinking early.
