Sorry, Hermitage, to tell your dining secret, but Cafe Bosna is so great you must share it.

Cafe Bosna, open a couple of years on Old Hickory, is the metier of Sevala Kulovic, onetime owner of Sevala's at Fifth and Union downtown. She drew attention to the little eatery with high-quality coffeeshop food sprinkled with Bosnian specialties.

Kulovic moved to Denver after selling Sevala's, then returned to Middle Tennessee about three years ago and opened Cafe Bosna (5751 Old Hickory Blvd., 889-7008).

Everything is made fresh, including the phyllo pastry (if you can even get your brain around that), and dinner is cooked to order. The back of the menu includes a listing of specialties from various regions including Turkey, Armenia, Hungary, Austria, Germany and Poland.

Sit in the dining room and you're treated like family, with conversation and camaraderie if you like, or privacy if you prefer. Sevala will light candles at your table. Fine European specialties like schnitzels (Jager, Vienna) arrive perfectly cooked and plated with fresh vegetables ($14 and change). You can scarf it down and leave, or bring a bottle of wine and linger as long as you like. Cafe Bosna is really very much like dining in Hungary or Poland.

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