First Peek: Noko Yaki

Since Rick and Vicki Bolsom closed Tin Angel back in 2019, the restaurant space at 3201 West End Ave. has sat vacant. A few years ago, developer, architect and builder signs began to appear in the windows, and the rumor got out that the team behind East Nashville faves Noko and Kase x Noko were planning to open something new in the space.

The project has gone through at least three names since details first began to leak out, finally settling on Noko Yaki — a nod to yakuniku, the Japanese style of grilling thin slices of meat over a hot tableside grill. Beyond that detail, there wasn’t a lot of information coming from the project, and it didn’t look like much progress was being made.

I took a tour of the site with Noko co-owner Jon Murray recently, and he explained that there was a lot going on behind the scenes. “We’ve had the building for two-and-a-half years,” he told me, “but we’ve been working inside for two years.” The old building had clay sewer pipes that collapsed, necessitating a lane closure on West End to repair them as part of an eight-month delay in construction. Then when it was time to reattach the building to Metro’s sewer lines, a contractor broke pipes again, leading to another two months of repairs.

The complexities involved in the yakiniku concept also slowed the remodeling process. Almost every table has its own high-BTU gas grill that must be vented to the outside. But installing that many overhead vent hoods would have made the dining room look like a metal forest. Murray explained that he’s pretty sure Noko Yaki is the first restaurant in the state to do underground ductwork to vent all the grills. Cool, but complicated.

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Even though it wasn't evident from the outside, a lot of design work was happening inside the restaurant. A combination of natural wood and metal accents contributes a zen calmness to the vibe, and a dramatic illuminated wine wall is sure to be a highlight. Longtime fans of the space may be disappointed to find out that the fireplace is gone, but it's been replaced by multiple fires that will serve the $150-seat restaurant. Serving staff will actually cook the meat tableside at four-top tables and banquets with grills attached. 

This is definitely not a Pfunky Griddle situation. You want someone who knows what they're doing when you're cooking real Kobe beef along with Japanese, American and Australian wagyu. In fact, Noko Yaki is the only restaurant in Tennessee directly licensed by the Kobe beef council to serve the rare Japanese delicacy. Other restaurants do serve Kobe, but their certification is through whoever imports the beef.

In addition to the tableside steak service, The menu will feature small bites, maybe some lettuce wraps and other things to eat with chopsticks along with classic steakhouse sides. Diners can expect to have chicken options, plus at least one market catch and a veggie plate. It will be a dinner-only restaurant, with reservations made in advance in a rolling calendar like at the other two Noko restaurants. The bar area will be reserved for walk-in diners.

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By focusing on the evening meal only, Murray and his partners Junior Vo and Wilson Brannock will be able to address an issue that many future Noko Yaki fans have already been fretting over: parking. They have negotiated with several neighboring businesses to be able to offer complimentary valet parking for about 60 cars. Combined with street parking available within a few blocks and the fact that many people will still utilize rideshares, they should be able to handle the expected influx of customers.

With an opening planned for some time in October, it won’t be long until everyone can find out what’s been going on inside the building. From what I’ve seen, it’s going to be great!